It's ALIVE!!!!
Finished up the install this evening. I took a few pictures. Maybe during the daylight tomorrow I will open the tailgate back up and see if I can get a video of it in action. I found that I could probably use a spacer in the middle. If I push it down too far on the lock arm, the actuator hit the arm and doesn't move it far enough. But as I have it right now, it works just fine. But it just has the possibility of coming off later so I might have to do something to hold it in place.
One note, the blue actuator wire is connected to the blue factory lock wire in the pictures. That is the wrong way. The blue actuator wire has to go to the grey factory wire and the green actuator wire needs to go to the blue factory wire. I just reversed the disconnects I put in near the tailgate to correct it.
Tools:
T30 Torx screwdriver
wire cutters
quick disconnects
8mm wrench
10mm wrench (for camera)
wire splices
split loom
20 feet of 16 or 18 gauge wire will work fine. I used 14 gauge.
1" throw actuator
custom bracket
Stock non-camera handle.
Disconnect the tabs by moving them sideways.
Remove the rods from the white clips on the tailgate and the handle and just lay the handle ends on the tailgate.
If replacing with the camera handle, push in the tab toward the front and drop that end down to remove the handle.
Replace with the camera handle.
How do you install the camera? Here is a pdf that shows you everything you need:
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PT233-34070inst.pdf
Next, remove the old handle key lock. Use a screwdriver to move the clip counter clockwise a little.
Drop it into the new handle and then use the clip to lock it in place. Then install the actuator on the bracket (2nd coat of paint is now blue) and use the factory bolts to hold it and the handle in place.
This is what is looks like when the actuator is too low.
This is how high the actuator should sit. I tried cutting my own space out of a B cap, but it didn't work.
Now run the wiring through the tailgate along side the camera wiring.
Don't forget to put in disconnects near the actuator and after the wiring leaves the tailgate and enters the truck.
I ran all the wires in split loom under the truck. Didn't take any pics since there isn't much to see. I also decided to run 4 wires to the front. I figured one wire could be used for tailgate lights in the bed when the tonneau is unrolled. Or maybe a hood pin for the tailgate and tied to an alarm system. Or possibly auxiliary reverse lights whatever I decide, I have two extra wires for the future. I ran all the wires through a grommet under the rear floor board and down the side of the truck.
Used some wire splices to connect to the factory door lock wiring. You have to connect to the blue wire and the larger of two grey wires. The factory grey wire goes to the actuator blue wire. This picture shows it wired wrong.
And then tuck the splices in the factory loom as much as possible.
You might have to adjust the angle of the bracket to keep it from popping off and to adjust the exact throw a little. You can do that by hand so it's not bad.
Special thanks to bruceatlam in TS for telling me what wires to tap into. And thanks to squid for hosting this on his forum.