Here is a quick writeup of my NAV install. I'll be somewhat brief, so feel free to ask any questions you might have.
I soldered and used heat shrink on all the wires to connect the Pioneer wires to the wiring harness. This can be done inside where it is warm. and comfortable.
Start on the dash by pulling out the left side of the gauge cluster. You just want to get it loose by pulling it out a few inches. You don't need to remove it. Start with the left and work your way across the dash. It that isn't working, try doing the left, then the right, then the center. It's all friction tabs so no need to worry.
Next pull out the cigarette lighter compartment. I just open up both sides, wedge my thumbs in and pull. It is also friction held.
Next pull out the AC controls. It is friction held also, but is in a little stiffer than the rest. Look how thin the control panel is.
This will expose 4 hex bolts (10mm) that need to be removed. There are two in the picture and the other two are farther back on the sides of those two.
Once those are out, there are two friction tabs holding it in place at the top of the stereo. Pull it out and you'll see some plugs in the back. The far left black one is the antenna, the next one is for the rear speakers, the next one is for power, speakers, etc, and the right one is the K3 plug which we will tap into for the speed sensor. JBL owners have the K9 plug.
There are little tabs on all the plugs used to remove them. So be careful when removing them.
Now we need a reverse sensor to activate the reverse camera. Remove the threshold cover from the passenger side doorway. Just lift up on the front edge and the friction tabs will slowly release.
Once that is out, remove the single screw by hand that holds the kick panel in place.
What you are looking for is the blue wire from the lowermost white plug. Tap into this wire to get your reverse sensor signal. I had a problem with the Pioneer wire so test your wire before installing it.
If you don't like that wire, PS-Rage said the green wire in the factory camera plug will also work.
Next you need a speed sensor wire. This tells the unit how fast you are moving. There is one in the K3 plug (K9 for JBL) that we pulled out of the stereo. You want the wire from pin number 3. (Non-JBL uses K3 pin 3 and JBL uses K9 pin 4.) Which one is wire number three? Look at the side of the plug with all the holes and count across the top from left to right. It's the lone white wire on the K3 plug. I just used a wire tap so it'd be easy to return to stock when the truck is sold.
I also did the 2 wire bypass which allows the passenger to access the NAV controls while the truck is in motion. Instructions to do it can be found here:
AVIC411.com :: View topic - AVIC-Z2 Pre/Post-June Bypass Files
To do it you need to ground the parking brake sensor and ground another pin on the head unit. Per the instructions given, I pulled the unused mute wire and used it in the blank space to ground the pin.
Now you need to run your wire from your head unit to the upper console. Get the wire ready first. I had a 24 gauge 4 strand shielded wire laying around and thought it would work great for this application. Yeah, running power with signal lines isn't good, but it's better than nothing. Only ground the shield at one end. Grounding on both ends could cause a ground loop. Cat5 wire could work too. I used the instructions from PS-Rage to build a voltage regulator and wire up to the factory wiring for the OEM camera.
OEM camera wiring instructions:
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/ele....html#post5530 Quote:
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Originally Posted by PS-Rage Black = 6v (CA+) <-- accessory power must be brought to here
White = Ground (CGND) <-- ground must be brought to here
Red = Center of coax (V+)
Grey = Shield of coax (V-) |
Voltage regulator:
Worklog - Road RagE II (2007 Tundra) - Page 8 - Tundra Solutions Forum Quote:
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Originally Posted by PS-Rage I had on hand an NTE956 which is a generic version of an LM317. This is an adjustable voltage regulator whose output is set with a simple voltage divider: 
A couple quick calculations finds my resistor values (R1 = 100ohms and R2 = 420ohms) and I can solder it together. Of course it is rare to find the exact values for resistors so I had to put a 220 and a 200 in series. All these parts should be available at Radio Shack, BTW. |
My voltage regulator is a little longer since I bought a package of 220 ohm resistors (420 ohm not available) and a package of 100 ohm resistors. So I had to line them up to make 420 ohms. I think I had 418 when I was done so that is close enough. I chose to install this behind the head unit. and use the cigarette lighter as my switched power.
Also needed to go from 2 strand wire to coax wire. I had the gold coax plug from my previous car audio I pulled out of my car. I had cut them off to use the coax for my parking sensor install. I desoldered the old wires and soldered in my wires and had my coax plug. You can find something similar at Radio shack.
This part is the old way. There is a new way down lower.
I removed the lower glove box and ran my wires behind it and then up the right A-pillar. The wires are right above the silver bar.
Now remove the overhead console. You are looking for six T20 hex screws. Two in the back, four in the front (on a CrewMax). Work your way from the front to the back and it won't fall on your head. Remove the light plug and put the overhead console aside.
For the back pair of screws, remove the very back cover.
The far left plug is the camera plug.
Not a lot of room to work up there. Be careful stripping the wires. The grey sheathing can come off a couple inches back of where you are tapping into the wiring. I just covered it back with heat shrink when it came off and kept going.
Edit: Found out what the other wires in the video pug are. The Blue wire is an always on +12v wire. The Violet wire is a reverse signal wire. The light purple is a switched power (I was told). And the White/Black Stripe is a ground. So you could connect the white/black wire to the white camera wire and the voltage regulator between the light purple wire and the black camera wire. Then you just need to run the video wires (red and grey) down to the head unit coax.
This is the new way I tapped into the camera wiring:
In the left A-pillar, you will find two plugs down low. The plug closer to you contains the wiring for the camera, the one with all the tap and rubber tubing on it. Same colors as above. Just tap into the wiring here.
Cut back the tape and rubber cover to expose the wires so you have room to work.
This way, you only need to run the mic to the overhead console if you plan to put it there. In this second truck, I put the mic in the top left corner of the windshield. Seemed to work there pretty well.
You also need to wire the mic up to the overhead console. I tried two ways of installing it. One was using the visor clip to hold it in place. The other was to cut one side of a tab and use it to hold the wire in place. Cutting the tab seemed the better way in the end. It works great for the voice commands. I haven't tried it yet with the bluetooth. That goes in later today.
All that is left is the GPS antenna for the NAV. The wire position in the antenna is wrong to drill the roof and install. I could go out the 3rd brake light, but that would entail removing the headliner and I don't have the time since I leave town today. I was about to just stuck in the corner of the dash when I started thinking about the location of the center speaker. I don't have a center speaker so it's just an open hole right now. Plus the cover is plastic so it won't really block the signal. It was worth a try. I had a piece of aluminum left over from my fog light and hood latch mod. So I drilled some holes in it and bolted it in place. Got some double sided tape and stuck the piece of metal that came with it to the aluminum piece and the antenna is magnetic. It fits great under the speaker grill so the antenna is completely stealth. I also get a really good signal from it so I plan to leave it right there.
And that is it until the bluetooth is installed later today.
If the camera does not work after you connected it, don't doubt your connections right away. It might be that the camera input is simply turned off on the head unit. It sometimes turns off when the car battery is disconnected. Here is how you check it.
You have to go to one of the AV screen (like the FM radio station page). Then press the 'AV Settings' button on the bottom of the screen. Then press the 'System Settings' on the top right of the screen. You will then see a button for Camera on/off. If it is off, then press the button and it will take you to another screen where you can change it. Don't mess with the polarity unless you know what you are doing.
Thanks to PS-Rage for his work in tying into the factory camera wiring and coming up with the schematic for the voltage regulator. Mine read 6.90 volts.