Here’s some notes on installing the Alarm in the Tundra. This was done on an 07 CrewMax and a CompuStar Alarm with Remote Start. I have some pictures and hopefully they will help a little, but I make no promises. The whole thing could make no sense and be useless to you. I’ll just try to cover the parts that were different from the instruction that came with the alarm and also how I chose to install some things like hood pins and alarm LEDs.
Here is where I kept all the instructions I was using for the install. The door pocket made for a good holder.
First you need a 12v power source. There is a large black wire under the left side of the dash that feeds the fuse box. I want to say it’s an 8 gauge wire so look for the biggest black wire that plugs in below all the other plugs on the lower left. This wire is always hot and should be large enough to handle the alarm on top of everything else it already supplies. I just cut open the cover and soldered to the wire. You need a lot of heat to solder this so a flame powered soldering iron or a larger wattage soldering iron is needed. Try not to use a torch as you might get it too hot. I used a 10 gauge wire to feed all the other components and the alarm.
Be sure to tape it up when you are done. This will be your main power feed for the alarm and any other components. You will need to split this up into multiple leads which is easy to so with smaller wire. You only need a couple of them. I added one or two extra just in case I want to add anything else in the future.
The left green wire is my ground wires. I just used the factory ground point for that one:
This is under the steering column. These plugs are for the key sense for the remote start. This lets the truck start without a key.
The plug on the right side with the black mark on it is the plug where all the remote starter wiring goes to. There are lots of plugs on the steering column. This one is on the ignition side of the column and faces away from the steering wheel.
This is wiring in the door sense wires. You have to use diodes to make sure one door doesn’t trigger the other doors.
In the above picture, the left side is the fuse box and the right side is the BECU.
The left front door wire is brown at the BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 24. The right front door wire is orange at the BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 21. The Left Rear door wire is dark brown at the fuse box, top 24 pin plug, pin 2. The Right rear door wire is green or blue at the BECU, 28 pin plug, pin 25.
This is the plug for the ODBII plug at the bottom of the dash. The single white wire on the right side is the speed sensor wire. The alarm uses this to disable the remote start if the truck moves without the truck key in the ignition. You can also set the alarm to lock the door if you get over a certain speed.
Here is where I tapped into the dome lights behind the cabin lights switch in the dash. Use the light blue wire.
It’s not a complete jumble just yet.
You are going to need to install a hood pin. I looked to see if I could do it like the factory alarm does, but it wasn’t going to be easy. So I found a hole above the front right headlight that would work great. Problem was that part of the headlight was in the way. It was an unimportant part of the headlight so I just drilled a hole through it to make the hood pin fit.
I also decided to install the siren under the dash close by. I prefer a no-drill install if possible. That lets you go back to factory later, makes sure you don’t drill into anything behind what you are drilling through, and doesn’t cause any rust as well. So I found a spot that worked between my Volant filter box and the black box closer to the fire wall. I used the same bolt that the black box used and it’s worked great.
I cut the nipple off the lower rubber piece of the grommet in the firewall and ran the wires through it.
I have a glass break sensor module and I needed a place to put the microphone and the LED for the alarm. I figured the factory location for the GBS was a good place for both of those. So I drilled two holes in the blank. The hole for the LED was drilled using a 13/64” bit and the hole for the GBS mic was drilled using a 3/8” bit. Be careful drilling the holes since the 3/8” bit catches the sides of the blank. Try to keep it clean. Any cleanup can be done using a cigarette lighter for a quick second around the hole.
Looks pretty good if I do say so myself.
I also used window modules to open and close the windows. For the driver’s window, I had to tap into the wires in the door. I need the dark blue and light blue wires at the window controls, but I decided to do it closer to the window motor. There is a plug in the door leading to the motor that seemed like a great place to do it. Wiring up to that point was a pain. Snaking the wires through the door loom was a pain since it’s all taped up inside.
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