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  #211 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Toxarch View Post
Build your own MDF bracket and mount the mid and high in the bracket.
MDF???

I'm assuming it's a speaker bracket where I can mount both the mid and the tweeter, right?? I just might do that if I decide to keep the tweeters next to the mid. I have a bunch of plastic left over from the dash kit. Or I was even thinking of buying the OEM sail panels with the built in tweeter spot. Not sure if I wanna spend $60.00 for the two panels though.
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  #212 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 02:58 PM
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MDF is Medium Density Fiber Board. It's a wood sheet you can get from any lumber supply. Looks like a big sheet of plywood, only a lot heavier and no wood grain. It's made from wood pulp and glue. They use it to make speaker boxes. You can buy a 4x4 sheet of it from Home Depot for probably $8 or so. Don't quote me on that price. I think a 4x4 sheet should be enough for all 4 doors. Trace the front OEM speaker bracket on it so you know the shape to cut it. Hopefully you have or can borrow a skill saw:


Use that to cut the outside shape. Then draw the new speaker holes on the MDF piece (make sure there is clearance when installed) and cut those holes out. Slap some black paint on it and you have your very own custom speaker bracket that will hold both the mid and the high. There used to be a template someone drew so you can just print it out and trace it to make the bracket. I used to have it but it's gone after my external hard drive quit.

You can also get a white plastic 1/2" thick cutting board and do the same thing.
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  #213 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:04 PM
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Thanks Tox. I'll give that a go if I decide to put the tweeters in that spot. My inlaws have just about every tool known to man. So I'm sure they'll have a jigsaw at least.
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  #214 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:15 PM
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Here's a ? for you guys. The aux input is now obsolete. Bothers me. Can I just splice into that input in the back and run that to the back of my HU making the input useful again?
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  #215 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SybErkRimInAL View Post
Here's a ? for you guys. The aux input is now obsolete. Bothers me. Can I just splice into that input in the back and run that to the back of my HU making the input useful again?
Sure, just have to match up the wiring.
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  #216 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:45 PM
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Sure, just have to match up the wiring.
Cool, I'll give that a go sometime soon.
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  #217 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2009, 03:20 PM
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Hey guys, got my Sirius adapter (CD-SB10) in the mail today. Figured it would be as easy as hooking up the adapter for the stock HU....... guess not. It came with two loose wires that lead to a fuse, then a little black box. I have to supply power to one of the loose wires.. The instructions read "Connect to the constant 12V supply terminal". Where can I tap into a constant 12V supply?? I'm assuming that means a connection that is constantly supplying power and not only when the key is in the truck and turned to ACC. HELP!

P.S. I was hoping to mount this module exactly where my previous one was, which is under the cup holders. Is there any constant 12v supplies in that area? thx!

Edit: Outlet in center console does not have constant 12v power. Seems to time out after a while.
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  #218 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2009, 04:59 PM
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I think there is a 12 volt constant in the Tundra radio wiring harness SybErk. I'll have a look at my Scosche wiring diagram tonight and see. I pretty sure that's right because I also mounted the Sirius unit (CD-SB10) under the cupholders and ran the 12 volts power and ground up to the Scosche wiring harnass.
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  #219 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2009, 05:00 PM
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I wouldn't connect it to a constant 12v power unless it absolutely had to have it. Otherwise it's going to just drain your battery. I would try the cigarette lighter assuming that it has power when in ACC. If not, then I would use the radio's 12 volt feed. It does turn off, but you aren't going to need the satellite to be powered without the radio so it shouldn't matter.
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  #220 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2009, 05:01 PM
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The radio should have both a constant 12v power and a switched 12v power. The constant 12v power is for the radio memory.
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