Toyota Tundra Forum

Thanks Tox... I decided to ditch the idea with the Pioneer camera regulator, and just try to figure out what you and Rage were doing....I'm regulator boob, and it didn't make sense until I read the pin-out on the regulator's package, and noted that the middle pin was connected to the heatsink tab...

This is what I ended up with, my soldering is not pretty









Sadly, I didn't notice a manufacturing defect in my dash kit until I was fitting the Avic in it, and as much as I wanted to just install it anyways, I figured to not... as it would haunt me... And my local shops are out of the glossy ones, so I guess it'll be a couple more days till I can get this sucker in...

Again...thanks
You guys rock!!!

Looks good Dawgbone. It's all behind the dash so it doesn't have to be pretty.

When I did the install in Florida, we had the wrong dash kit at first. What I did was to use the OEM stereo mounts for the head unit. They are metal and stronger than the plastic ones that come with the kit. Then we found a kit at a shop down the road and just fit the surround piece around the stereo and the tabs held it in place. Took a little movement to get the metal brackets to center perfect in the surround piece, but it ended up working really well. If you don't mind the look for a couple of days, you can do the same thing. That way the stereo is in (with a strong mount) and you just finish it off with the final piece later.

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Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved.

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, 55w reverse lights, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, colormatched exterior parts (de-chromed truck), eDead sound proofing, CDT Audio speakers, Custom made speaker brackets, Weathertech floor mats
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

thanks for the write up dude. You made my install today Allot easier today!


The upper left corner pulls in to tight for some reason. The clip is installed correctly too. Im tired of fooling with it. Not a huge deal but still annoying for the price I paid for the Metra kit. I installed my bypass next to the tow haul button. I like playing DVD some of my DVD music DVD's while im driving.


Reverse wire hooked up to the blue. No Camera yet though. I pre-ran an RCA allong the dirvers side for the install at a later date.

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Glad it helped out. Thanks for posting up the pics.

helped big time. I would have never figured out the reverse wire.. hehe

Toxarch, would bringing the blue and black together(regulated), make the camera always on? Or is that what I want? Should I just run it to ACC?

Thanks...

Well, if it's truly an always on power supply, then you don't want to use that blue wire. That would mean the camera is on when the truck is turned off. Could later lead to a dead battery or a burned out camera. I should edit that line to say that.

Someone in another thread said a light purple wire in the same bundle is a switched power. You could test the wire and be sure if it is switched. Otherwise, I would run power from the ACC to the regulator.

Thanks again Toxarch!!!
I first tied into the a-pillar, but for whatever reason, the white wire I tied into didn't provid a ground... instead I got 10v at the camera in 3 of the 4 wires... And I'm pretty sure I fried my camera...

I also must have tied into the wrong green wire for reverse, which the one to tie into is in the other plug(closest to the windshield).... Which could have been the entire problem..

I ended up running my own +/- from behind the HU and got everything under control... I made sure that I had the right red/gray by following them up the a-pillar to the blue shieth(spelling?) and buttoned everything up... Hopefully my stealership will take the cam back and give me another...although I won't be surprised if they don't... I could also retrofit my old Pioneer cam(which is a good cam) into the tailgate handle...

You can feed the camera 12 volts and it will work. Some people ran them on 12 volts for a couple of months before one person noticed it's supposed to run on between 5-7 volts.

These are the wires for the camera in the A-pillar:

You can feed the camera 12 volts and it will work. Some people ran them on 12 volts for a couple of months before one person noticed it's supposed to run on between 5-7 volts.

These are the wires for the camera in the A-pillar:

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