Toyota Tundra Forum

Finished installing my AVIC-Z2 NAV unit this evening. It took a little longer than expected because the wire they sent for the reverse sensor had something that looked like one of those ferrite core things for wires and the wire was broken inside it. So I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't switch on the reverse camera and wasn't getting a reverse signal. Also found out that the NAV unit comes from the factory with the camera option turned off. But it's all done except for my bluetooth unit which should arrive tomorrow. I can plug that in before I leave town.

Here are a couple of pictures of it installed.




Also, I tested out mounting the GPS antenna where the center speaker is supposed to go. Thought it was worth a try. Turned out to be a GREAT location. Completely hidden under the dash speaker cover and still gets a good signal.




I'll do a quick write-up with a bunch of pics tomorrow.

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2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

Looking good Tox! I know I can ask you these questions this weekend, but did you finally get the backup camera working? Also, did you end up having to eliminate the center speaker in order to leave the satellite antenna where you located it, or was there room for both? Also, I noticed a very slight difference in the bezel color of the DVD and the rest of the glossy black dash... is the camera flash making it look that way or is the color diffference really noticeable? I have a lot more questions to ask this weekend, so be prepared!

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2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller

Looks great Tox! - excellent idea for the gps antennae - i'm assuming your truck didn't have the center speaker same as mine.. what a great idea.

When you do get around to posting more, throw in some model #s.. i might just have to copy your setup

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CrewMAX 5.7 SR5
Surrey, BC Canada

LINE-X Bed Liner, Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller, ScanGauge II

Geddes Family Homestay - Hosting international students in Vancouver, Surrey

Yes, the backup camera works great. After I got the reverse sensor wire working, it still wasn't coming on. I was going to open everything again and start testing wires when I thought maybe I should try the manual first. Couldn't find anything about the camera in the table of contents. So I started fishing around the controls and found where to turn the camera controls on. Then it worked great. It comes on when I go into reverse or I can just turn it on and leave it on while driving. That is great for when I have my trailer and can't see it in the center mirror.

I never had a center speaker to begin with. 6 disc changer option came with the 4 lower door speakers and 2 in the sides of the dash. So the center speaker location was free and wouldn't be used.

I noticed it when I had the old stereo next to the new stereo in the bezel. Yes, you can tell the difference in color, though it is really slight. This is the Scosche dash kit and I'm not very impressed with it. Maybe I'll see how the other members' installs look and change bezels. There is someone doing a Kenwood install who has the Metra kit. Maybe that looks better.

I'll be happy to answer them all. One of the neat features is the hands free voice command. I can control just about anything by voice. For the rest, I got a remote.

Yeah, no center speaker. Here is all the stuff I ordered:

SCOSCHE TA2073B - dash kit, might be replaced.
SCOSCHE TA021 - wiring harness bought at Wal-Mart
Pioneer AVIC-Z2 - NAV unit/DVD player
Pioneer ND-BT1 - Bluetooth control adapter
Pioneer CD-SR1 - Steering wheel remote. I plan to just use it hand held for now.

Coming soon will be a Dynamat type of product called eDead, door speakers and a sub.

Here is a quick writeup of my NAV install. I'll be somewhat brief, so feel free to ask any questions you might have.



I soldered and used heat shrink on all the wires to connect the Pioneer wires to the wiring harness. This can be done inside where it is warm. and comfortable.



Start on the dash by pulling out the left side of the gauge cluster. You just want to get it loose by pulling it out a few inches. You don't need to remove it. Start with the left and work your way across the dash. It that isn't working, try doing the left, then the right, then the center. It's all friction tabs so no need to worry.




Next pull out the cigarette lighter compartment. I just open up both sides, wedge my thumbs in and pull. It is also friction held.



Next pull out the AC controls. It is friction held also, but is in a little stiffer than the rest. Look how thin the control panel is.



This will expose 4 hex bolts (10mm) that need to be removed. There are two in the picture and the other two are farther back on the sides of those two.



Once those are out, there are two friction tabs holding it in place at the top of the stereo. Pull it out and you'll see some plugs in the back. The far left black one is the antenna, the next one is for the rear speakers, the next one is for power, speakers, etc, and the right one is the K3 plug which we will tap into for the speed sensor. JBL owners have the K9 plug.



There are little tabs on all the plugs used to remove them. So be careful when removing them.



Now we need a reverse sensor to activate the reverse camera. Remove the threshold cover from the passenger side doorway. Just lift up on the front edge and the friction tabs will slowly release.



Once that is out, remove the single screw by hand that holds the kick panel in place.



What you are looking for is the blue wire from the lowermost white plug. Tap into this wire to get your reverse sensor signal. I had a problem with the Pioneer wire so test your wire before installing it.



If you don't like that wire, PS-Rage said the green wire in the factory camera plug will also work.

Next you need a speed sensor wire. This tells the unit how fast you are moving. There is one in the K3 plug (K9 for JBL) that we pulled out of the stereo. You want the wire from pin number 3. (Non-JBL uses K3 pin 3 and JBL uses K9 pin 4.) Which one is wire number three? Look at the side of the plug with all the holes and count across the top from left to right. It's the lone white wire on the K3 plug. I just used a wire tap so it'd be easy to return to stock when the truck is sold.





I also did the 2 wire bypass which allows the passenger to access the NAV controls while the truck is in motion. Instructions to do it can be found here:
AVIC411.com :: View topic - AVIC-Z2 Pre/Post-June Bypass Files

To do it you need to ground the parking brake sensor and ground another pin on the head unit. Per the instructions given, I pulled the unused mute wire and used it in the blank space to ground the pin.




Now you need to run your wire from your head unit to the upper console. Get the wire ready first. I had a 24 gauge 4 strand shielded wire laying around and thought it would work great for this application. Yeah, running power with signal lines isn't good, but it's better than nothing. Only ground the shield at one end. Grounding on both ends could cause a ground loop. Cat5 wire could work too. I used the instructions from PS-Rage to build a voltage regulator and wire up to the factory wiring for the OEM camera.

OEM camera wiring instructions:
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/ele....html#post5530

Voltage regulator:
Worklog - Road RagE II (2007 Tundra) - Page 8 - Tundra Solutions Forum

My voltage regulator is a little longer since I bought a package of 220 ohm resistors (420 ohm not available) and a package of 100 ohm resistors. So I had to line them up to make 420 ohms. I think I had 418 when I was done so that is close enough. I chose to install this behind the head unit. and use the cigarette lighter as my switched power.



Also needed to go from 2 strand wire to coax wire. I had the gold coax plug from my previous car audio I pulled out of my car. I had cut them off to use the coax for my parking sensor install. I desoldered the old wires and soldered in my wires and had my coax plug. You can find something similar at Radio shack.





This part is the old way. There is a new way down lower.

I removed the lower glove box and ran my wires behind it and then up the right A-pillar. The wires are right above the silver bar.




Now remove the overhead console. You are looking for six T20 hex screws. Two in the back, four in the front (on a CrewMax). Work your way from the front to the back and it won't fall on your head. Remove the light plug and put the overhead console aside.



For the back pair of screws, remove the very back cover.


The far left plug is the camera plug.




Not a lot of room to work up there. Be careful stripping the wires. The grey sheathing can come off a couple inches back of where you are tapping into the wiring. I just covered it back with heat shrink when it came off and kept going.



Edit: Found out what the other wires in the video pug are. The Blue wire is an always on +12v wire. The Violet wire is a reverse signal wire. The light purple is a switched power (I was told). And the White/Black Stripe is a ground. So you could connect the white/black wire to the white camera wire and the voltage regulator between the light purple wire and the black camera wire. Then you just need to run the video wires (red and grey) down to the head unit coax.

This is the new way I tapped into the camera wiring:

In the left A-pillar, you will find two plugs down low. The plug closer to you contains the wiring for the camera, the one with all the tap and rubber tubing on it. Same colors as above. Just tap into the wiring here.



Cut back the tape and rubber cover to expose the wires so you have room to work.




This way, you only need to run the mic to the overhead console if you plan to put it there. In this second truck, I put the mic in the top left corner of the windshield. Seemed to work there pretty well.

You also need to wire the mic up to the overhead console. I tried two ways of installing it. One was using the visor clip to hold it in place. The other was to cut one side of a tab and use it to hold the wire in place. Cutting the tab seemed the better way in the end. It works great for the voice commands. I haven't tried it yet with the bluetooth. That goes in later today.






All that is left is the GPS antenna for the NAV. The wire position in the antenna is wrong to drill the roof and install. I could go out the 3rd brake light, but that would entail removing the headliner and I don't have the time since I leave town today. I was about to just stuck in the corner of the dash when I started thinking about the location of the center speaker. I don't have a center speaker so it's just an open hole right now. Plus the cover is plastic so it won't really block the signal. It was worth a try. I had a piece of aluminum left over from my fog light and hood latch mod. So I drilled some holes in it and bolted it in place. Got some double sided tape and stuck the piece of metal that came with it to the aluminum piece and the antenna is magnetic. It fits great under the speaker grill so the antenna is completely stealth. I also get a really good signal from it so I plan to leave it right there.






And that is it until the bluetooth is installed later today.



If the camera does not work after you connected it, don't doubt your connections right away. It might be that the camera input is simply turned off on the head unit. It sometimes turns off when the car battery is disconnected. Here is how you check it.

You have to go to one of the AV screen (like the FM radio station page). Then press the 'AV Settings' button on the bottom of the screen. Then press the 'System Settings' on the top right of the screen. You will then see a button for Camera on/off. If it is off, then press the button and it will take you to another screen where you can change it. Don't mess with the polarity unless you know what you are doing.

Thanks to PS-Rage for his work in tying into the factory camera wiring and coming up with the schematic for the voltage regulator. Mine read 6.90 volts.

Got the bluetooth done. I made a test call and the person I called said they could hear me fine, but they could also hear themself. It was like an echo and a delay. Might be the microphone placement, might be the bluetooth technology, not sure.

Anyway, open up the center console and then lift on the front corners. This will release the middle part of the console that runs up to the dash.




I put the bluetooth unit next to the driver's seat and it's velcroed in place.



It says it has a 10 foot range but might be less due to interference. I figured that would be a good central location in the truck. Ran the wire up the center of the truck and plugged it in the NAV unit.

Well, you just saved me a bunch of time in writing up a post. I did the same install with the Ipod, XM, and headrest monitors. If you install ANY aftermarket stereo you will want to read through this to learn where your clips are and how to remove different items in which order, and then rock-n-roll with your own install.

Background. I have a 2007 Crewmax that I wanted to install a Pioneer Avic Z2, two headrest monitors (Pioneer AVD-W7900), the XM Radio box (GEX-P920XM), and the Ipod Integrator (CD-IB100II).

To start, I ordered everything (everything listed above plus a Scosche Dash kit, Scosche TA2073B, and a Tundra wiring harness, Scosche TA021) in true cheapo fashion, eBay, after a month of "waiting for the best deals", I scored. I got $3200 (MSRP) worth of gear for about $1400 with shipping... not too bad for a system I LOVE.

Read through what Toxarch has no doubt put ALOT of time in writing and scroll through all of his pics, and mine if you want alternate ways to mount you antennas, ideas on mounting your ipod and XM boxes and your wires. Thanks Toxarch, I am not trying to steal your glory, just adding to it for alternate ideas.

http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pho...r.php/uid/1897

Sorry about my double pics, I am not computer literate, or as I call myself, a computer idiot!

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Base:

2007 Tundra Crewmax 4x4 SR5 in Slate w/TRD intake and exhaust kit

Aftermarket (thus far):

Katzkin Leather in Slate
Leer 100XQ w/ keyless entry (great feature)
Pioneer Avic Z2 modded (Head Unit)
Pioneer 2x AVD W7900 (Headrest Screens)
Pioneer GEX-P920XM (XM Radio)
Pioneer CD-IB100II (Ipod Integrator)

Other Babies:

2007 FJ and a 1950 Mercury, along with the custom slung beach cruisers

Bare with me, I am not computer savvy!

Hey Chris, feel free to add to this thread if you want. I didn't do it for the glory, I did it to help people who might want to do the same thing in the future. Doing a write up helps me out by answering people's questions before they ask me. I don't mind PMs or questions at all, this just saves some time in the long run. If you want to do a full write up or do a write up on the parts I didn't install, feel free to go ahead. I'm sure people wouldn't mind a second set of instructions to help them out.

Once again, ANOTHER EXCELLENT WRITE-UP! Those wiring harnesses sure make things nice and a fantastic idea for the GPS antenna. I'll bet that location would work for a Sirius antenna too.

Thanks for enhancing the knowledge base!

re.ac.tor

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'10 CM SR5 4x2, S.A. Built & Purchased Sept '09, 5.7L, Sandy Beach Metallic, Drug Information in Lay Language

I just did the very thing this weekend. Where Toxarch put the GPS I put GPS and Sirius. It works great.

For those who maybe considering this here's the list of things I installed:

• AVIC Z2
• Sirius tuner (SIR-PNR2)
• Bluetooth module (ND-BT1),
• iPod (CD-IB100II)
• Steering remote (CD-SR1)
• Metra wiring harness (70-1761)
• Metra 2 Din dash kit (99-8220HG)

The Metra finish is identical to the factory radio trim. I wouldn't hesitate to buy that again.

For those hooking up to the overhead console factory harness: there was more than 1 white wire in the factory connector but the wires that are needed are all on the same side of the connector (white, red, blue gray). They are the ones visible in the foreground on the picture Tox took: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...NavUnit034.jpg

I tapped the factory camera harness so I could return everything to original. It's tight in there with 4 taps but it does fit. Initially my camera didn't work but it was my mistake: a short in the phono connector.

The install took several hours (being a noob at this) but was not hard. I am very happy with the install.

Thank you Toxarch for the great writeup