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  • Pioneer AVIC-Z2 NAV install (Lots of Pics)

    Here is a quick writeup of my NAV install. I'll be somewhat brief, so feel free to ask any questions you might have.



    I soldered and used heat shrink on all the wires to connect the Pioneer wires to the wiring harness. This can be done inside where it is warm. and comfortable.



    Start on the dash by pulling out the left side of the gauge cluster. You just want to get it loose by pulling it out a few inches. You don't need to remove it. Start with the left and work your way across the dash. It that isn't working, try doing the left, then the right, then the center. It's all friction tabs so no need to worry.




    Next pull out the cigarette lighter compartment. I just open up both sides, wedge my thumbs in and pull. It is also friction held.



    Next pull out the AC controls. It is friction held also, but is in a little stiffer than the rest. Look how thin the control panel is.



    This will expose 4 hex bolts (10mm) that need to be removed. There are two in the picture and the other two are farther back on the sides of those two.



    Once those are out, there are two friction tabs holding it in place at the top of the stereo. Pull it out and you'll see some plugs in the back. The far left black one is the antenna, the next one is for the rear speakers, the next one is for power, speakers, etc, and the right one is the K3 plug which we will tap into for the speed sensor. JBL owners have the K9 plug.



    There are little tabs on all the plugs used to remove them. So be careful when removing them.



    Now we need a reverse sensor to activate the reverse camera. Remove the threshold cover from the passenger side doorway. Just lift up on the front edge and the friction tabs will slowly release.



    Once that is out, remove the single screw by hand that holds the kick panel in place.



    What you are looking for is the blue wire from the lowermost white plug. Tap into this wire to get your reverse sensor signal. I had a problem with the Pioneer wire so test your wire before installing it.



    If you don't like that wire, PS-Rage said the green wire in the factory camera plug will also work.

    Next you need a speed sensor wire. This tells the unit how fast you are moving. There is one in the K3 plug (K9 for JBL) that we pulled out of the stereo. You want the wire from pin number 3. (Non-JBL uses K3 pin 3 and JBL uses K9 pin 4.) Which one is wire number three? Look at the side of the plug with all the holes and count across the top from left to right. It's the lone white wire on the K3 plug. I just used a wire tap so it'd be easy to return to stock when the truck is sold.





    I also did the 2 wire bypass which allows the passenger to access the NAV controls while the truck is in motion. Instructions to do it can be found here:
    AVIC411.com :: View topic - AVIC-Z2 Pre/Post-June Bypass Files

    To do it you need to ground the parking brake sensor and ground another pin on the head unit. Per the instructions given, I pulled the unused mute wire and used it in the blank space to ground the pin.




    Now you need to run your wire from your head unit to the upper console. Get the wire ready first. I had a 24 gauge 4 strand shielded wire laying around and thought it would work great for this application. Yeah, running power with signal lines isn't good, but it's better than nothing. Only ground the shield at one end. Grounding on both ends could cause a ground loop. Cat5 wire could work too. I used the instructions from PS-Rage to build a voltage regulator and wire up to the factory wiring for the OEM camera.

    OEM camera wiring instructions:
    http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/ele....html#post5530

    Quote Originally Posted by PS-Rage
    Black = 6v (CA+) <-- accessory power must be brought to here
    White = Ground (CGND) <-- ground must be brought to here
    Red = Center of coax (V+)
    Grey = Shield of coax (V-)
    Voltage regulator:
    Worklog - Road RagE II (2007 Tundra) - Page 8 - Tundra Solutions Forum

    Quote Originally Posted by PS-Rage
    I had on hand an NTE956 which is a generic version of an LM317. This is an adjustable voltage regulator whose output is set with a simple voltage divider:



    A couple quick calculations finds my resistor values (R1 = 100ohms and R2 = 420ohms) and I can solder it together. Of course it is rare to find the exact values for resistors so I had to put a 220 and a 200 in series. All these parts should be available at Radio Shack, BTW.
    My voltage regulator is a little longer since I bought a package of 220 ohm resistors (420 ohm not available) and a package of 100 ohm resistors. So I had to line them up to make 420 ohms. I think I had 418 when I was done so that is close enough. I chose to install this behind the head unit. and use the cigarette lighter as my switched power.



    Also needed to go from 2 strand wire to coax wire. I had the gold coax plug from my previous car audio I pulled out of my car. I had cut them off to use the coax for my parking sensor install. I desoldered the old wires and soldered in my wires and had my coax plug. You can find something similar at Radio shack.





    This part is the old way. There is a new way down lower.

    I removed the lower glove box and ran my wires behind it and then up the right A-pillar. The wires are right above the silver bar.




    Now remove the overhead console. You are looking for six T20 hex screws. Two in the back, four in the front (on a CrewMax). Work your way from the front to the back and it won't fall on your head. Remove the light plug and put the overhead console aside.



    For the back pair of screws, remove the very back cover.


    The far left plug is the camera plug.




    Not a lot of room to work up there. Be careful stripping the wires. The grey sheathing can come off a couple inches back of where you are tapping into the wiring. I just covered it back with heat shrink when it came off and kept going.



    Edit: Found out what the other wires in the video pug are. The Blue wire is an always on +12v wire. The Violet wire is a reverse signal wire. The light purple is a switched power (I was told). And the White/Black Stripe is a ground. So you could connect the white/black wire to the white camera wire and the voltage regulator between the light purple wire and the black camera wire. Then you just need to run the video wires (red and grey) down to the head unit coax.

    This is the new way I tapped into the camera wiring:

    In the left A-pillar, you will find two plugs down low. The plug closer to you contains the wiring for the camera, the one with all the tap and rubber tubing on it. Same colors as above. Just tap into the wiring here.



    Cut back the tape and rubber cover to expose the wires so you have room to work.




    This way, you only need to run the mic to the overhead console if you plan to put it there. In this second truck, I put the mic in the top left corner of the windshield. Seemed to work there pretty well.


    You also need to wire the mic up to the overhead console. I tried two ways of installing it. One was using the visor clip to hold it in place. The other was to cut one side of a tab and use it to hold the wire in place. Cutting the tab seemed the better way in the end. It works great for the voice commands. I haven't tried it yet with the bluetooth. That goes in later today.






    All that is left is the GPS antenna for the NAV. The wire position in the antenna is wrong to drill the roof and install. I could go out the 3rd brake light, but that would entail removing the headliner and I don't have the time since I leave town today. I was about to just stuck in the corner of the dash when I started thinking about the location of the center speaker. I don't have a center speaker so it's just an open hole right now. Plus the cover is plastic so it won't really block the signal. It was worth a try. I had a piece of aluminum left over from my fog light and hood latch mod. So I drilled some holes in it and bolted it in place. Got some double sided tape and stuck the piece of metal that came with it to the aluminum piece and the antenna is magnetic. It fits great under the speaker grill so the antenna is completely stealth. I also get a really good signal from it so I plan to leave it right there.






    And that is it until the bluetooth is installed later today.



    If the camera does not work after you connected it, don't doubt your connections right away. It might be that the camera input is simply turned off on the head unit. It sometimes turns off when the car battery is disconnected. Here is how you check it.

    You have to go to one of the AV screen (like the FM radio station page). Then press the 'AV Settings' button on the bottom of the screen. Then press the 'System Settings' on the top right of the screen. You will then see a button for Camera on/off. If it is off, then press the button and it will take you to another screen where you can change it. Don't mess with the polarity unless you know what you are doing.

    Thanks to PS-Rage for his work in tying into the factory camera wiring and coming up with the schematic for the voltage regulator. Mine read 6.90 volts.
    This article was originally published in forum thread: Pioneer AVIC-Z2 NAV install (Lots of Pics) started by Toxarch View original post
    Comments 64 Comments
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      Getting ready to install the new head unit Kenwood DNX9990HD I have read through all the pages here and not sure that I am not more confused now. LOL
      Just want to check a couple of things first.
      I have a TRDSparks backup camera/homelink rearview mirror installed already on a 2011 DC this is the non-JBL system. I am going to use the same 12v camera and keep the rearview monitor and the new deck monitor hooked up.
      From what I have been reading I just need to pick up the V+ and V- in the drivers A pillar. and run that video feed to the new deck.
      Also if I want to bypass the reverse. here comes the tricky part. I need to put in a switch SPDT to switch between the stock rev. feed to a new switched power for the anytime mod.
      IS this correct? Or would it be just as easy to run a new ignition switched feed to the camera and leave it on all the time, and just use the Kenwood as the backup view. I know I can bypass the Kenwood to turn on the Rearview camera on at any time. But then I will not have the hands free when I put it in reverse correct?

      Also I know the colors have changed in the A pillar for the video feed and power/ground wires.
      Anyone have those colors right on hand?
    1. Toxarch's Avatar
      Toxarch -


      The new wiring is on the previous page. OEM camera only takes 6 volts.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      OK so If I am reading it right I need to tie into the Red wire and the grey wire at the top of the plug? This is the group of wires closest to the lone green wire in the plug

      So in order from top to bottom
      green
      black
      white
      red = V+
      grey = V-
      grey
      red
      white
      black

      Is this correct? I don't want to cut any wires I don't need to.

      Thanks
    1. Toxarch's Avatar
      Toxarch -


      Yes, that is for your video cable to the headunit.

      I don't know how the rear view mirror screen is wired so I can't say the best way to wire it. You could probably power the camera full time and cut the power feed from the mirror. Then that would give you an anytime rear camera view from the head unit.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      OK thanks
      If I have every thing figured right I just need to pick up the video feed to go to the head unit. The Kenwood head unit has a anytime view of the rear camera. So I dont need to make the rear view camera and anytime mod. Going to do the install today/this weekend. I might have to put in a switch to control the power to the rear view mirror. So it does not stay on all the time.
      I will post when I get everything done. Or have more questions.
      Thanks
    1. Toxarch's Avatar
      Toxarch -


      My camera is on anytime the truck is running.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      I thought that the camera only recieved power when the truck was in rev. If it has power all the time then how does it seperate from when the head unit calls for a any time view. Like driving down the road forward, as to putting it in reverise? The kenwood has a revirse wire that I will hook up and also has the ability to turn the camera on at anytime when it is bypassed.

      If there is power at the camera all the time how does the monitor in the mirror know when to turn on or off? IS that 12volts controled sepertatly?
      I will know a lot more once I start digging into this. This is part of my problem sitting her at work trying to work everything out a head of time. But as I get into the install I am sure it will become more clear.
    1. Toxarch's Avatar
      Toxarch -


      Your rear view mirror powers the camera only when the truck is put in reverse. If you aren't in reverse, then the camera should not be powered. Or at least the way Toyota used to do it.

      I wired mine up to be on all the time so that I can switch on the rear camera view on my head unit anytime I want.
    1. rarjar's Avatar
      rarjar -


      Did mine the same way...has the advantage of being able to see your trailer and load while your traveling.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      ok so my question is if I power the camera all the time then the monitor in the mirror will stay on all the time right? I suppose I could just unhook that monitor. But it would be nice to have both.
    1. rarjar's Avatar
      rarjar -


      Yes, you could disconnect the mirror monitor, OR you could always put a switch to power on the camera in the event you want it on when not in reverse. When you turn the switch on, the camera would show up in the mirror and the Kenwood HU (assuming you have it set to show backup camera).
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      ok kind of what I figured.
      They only thing that has me interiged is that with the kenwood with doing the bypass mod you can turn the rear camera on at anytime IE: Driving down the road. By holding down one of the buttons. So I am wondering how it could do this if the power to the camer is not on already. A friend of mine has an step down unit that does this with out any other mods done to the truck.
      So if it works with out mods that will be great. If not I will add a switch.
      Thanks
    1. Toxarch's Avatar
      Toxarch -


      The mirror should only switch on when the truck is put in reverse regardless of whether or not the camera is powered full time or not.
    1. rarjar's Avatar
      rarjar -


      Good point Tox...so he should be able to power up the camera for the HU and be fine.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      So is the A pillar the best place to power the camera? I assume it is the black wire in the same group of wires as the V+ and V- in the pillar.
      Started running all the rca cables and new speaker wires today. amp are in stalled and powered ready to get there new signal from the head unit.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      Ok guys need some help here.
      Have everything wired up but when I hook up the black wire from the truck to the switched 12+ the radio goes right to the camera screen. Soon as I take it off it returns to the normal screen radio,dvd, What ever was on there.
      So when I hook up the black wire in the A-pillar the one shown on the previous page to switched power it acts like I put the truck in reverse.
      Any ideas???
    1. Toxarch's Avatar
      Toxarch -


      Are you sure you have the reverse signal wire to the head unit correct? Sounds like you are powering the camera and the reverse signal wire at the same time.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      I will have to check the reverse wire hook up. I switched to the alpine INE-s920HD and you have to use a trigger to do the safety by pass I might have some thing crossed. It is kind of a strange set up there is more then one camera hook up to the head unit.
      So if I go into settings and switch things around to AUX camera instead of alpine camera I can get it to work right but the overhead camera monitor in the mirror stays on all the time. (this is with the black wire hooked up to the switched 12v. If I un-hook the switched wire then The radio only shows the camera view if placed in reverse and the over head monitor switches too.
      I will do some more checking in the morning.

      On a side note while hooking up the switched full time camera feed ( black wire) The gauges on the truck started freaking out. The 4hi light started flashing, traction control stayed on and ABS brakes light was on. I tried starting the truck turning off then back on same thing. I unhooked the battery again with out the camera feed and everything returned to normal. Not sure how the camera power wire could make the truck freak out. I did hook the camera feed up with everything on and energized so that might have been the problem.
    1. wellsjj's Avatar
      wellsjj -


      Did a little playing around with the set up. When I hook the black wire from the A pillar 12v camera lead it does turn on the camera but it also turns on the reverse lights and over head camera at the same time. It is back feeding to the hole system.
      Any ideas here?
    1. Toxarch's Avatar
      Toxarch -


      Hard to guess without seeing how everything was connected. I'd start with the reverse wire connection.
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