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| Electrical Lights, Battery, Wiring, Charging System, Etc. |
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| Crawling around under the truck isn't exactly a fun time. I think I still have a spare bracket laying around that you can have if you are going to do it... if I can find it. The rest of the install is just running wires, loom and connecting everything.
__________________ Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved. ![]() 2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4 Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, 55w reverse lights, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, colormatched exterior parts (de-chromed truck), eDead sound proofing, CDT Audio speakers, Custom made speaker brackets, Weathertech floor mats All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only. |
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| With that list, you can get me to come over and do all kinds of stuff. Throw in some attractive ladies, and you'll have to call the cops to get me to leave. I'll be installing a new alarm in the truck soon. It's pretty much the baddest alarm available that I know about. Hope I can figure it all out. Since there is a trunk release available as part of the alarm, I think I am going to to WTVa's tailgate release mod. Should be pretty easy to do since I ran extra wires back there when I did the locks. |
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That's a LOT of pictures if I take a picture of them all. With that many connections and me having never installed an alarm/starter before, don't be surprised if I quit the pictures half way through. Maybe I'll do an abbreviated picture session of the wiring and just take pictures of the hard to find wires. |
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| I just finished this mod on my 2008 DC. The hardest part was figuring out how to route the wiring. I ended up using 14ft. of 1/4 inch convoluted tubing and running some 18awg wire inside it all the way from the rear passenger door to the inside of the tailgate. There was about 18 inches of the wire which had to be run without the tubing under the threshold molding to where I spliced into the blue and gray wiring. Figuring out how to get the wire out of the cab without messing with the carpeting was tricky. I found a rubber plug that was just behind the jack mount which went under the cab floor but not all the way outside. Underneath the truck about 16 inches closer to the rear passenger door was a smaller rubber plug. After some trial and error I found that I could fish a wire through that space. So, I put 1/4 inch holes in both of the plugs for the tubing. It was tricky on the smaller plug because it was just a bit bigger than necessary. Both plugs turned out pretty snug which was perfect. I routed the tubing inside the cab along the back wall and then under the trim to the threshold. It looks neat and tidy and should be fairly weather tight even without any sealant. I also needed to grind down one side of the actuator arm so it would sit nice and flat. For a bracket I ended up just using the slotted plate that came with the actuator. I cut it off so that it was 3 mounting slots long and bent it into an L shape about halfway into the first slot. I attached the actuator to the long side of the L with just one screw at the font of the actuator. I then bolted the short side of the L where the right hand tailgate handle bolt is. After some minor adjustments it works great. I did buy a 1 inch throw actuator, but I think it is slightly shorter than an inch. I had to get it mounted just right before I was satisfied with how it worked. I think another 1/8 to 1/4 inch of throw would have been perfect, but it does work fine the way it is. Overall a fun project. Only the wire running was a pain, but if I did another one I'm sure I could do it in less than an hour. Much thanks to Toxarch for the write up. |
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| Glad it helped out. |
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| I did this mod today and I am very happy with the result. Thanks Tox for an excellent DIY post. I mounted the actuator on the forward side of the tailgate because I thought it would be more sturdy. This is definitely overkill, and it took more effort, but I had some time today and some material from a previous project so I figured what the hell. I used one of these small pieces of 6061-T6 aluminum extrusion and also the bent piece which is 2024-T4, but any steel or aluminum angle will do. ![]() There is an existing hole on this stringer that I used for one of the fastener holes. ![]() ![]() I drilled a second fastener hole being carefull to offset it from the lock release rod, so there would be no interference. ![]() ![]() Then located the second angle. ![]() And drilled 2 holes and fastened the angles together.
__________________ ![]() 2008 D/C 4X4 5.7-ARE Z-Series Cap Volant CAI-Scangauge-Valentine 1 Low Range Off Road 3/1 Level Kit TRD Rims with BFG AT 305/65/18 OEM Alarm Turned On-TRD Sway Bar Westin SS Tube Steps-Tailgate Auto Lock Mod Piaa Driving Lights in bumper-Rear Seatfold Mod Direct JG 6000K 55W HID Hi & Low Beams Corsa Sport Exhaust-Homelink Mirror OEM Back Up Camera and Monitor LED Backup Lights and Interior Lights Eclipse AVN52D-SI BM mkIII in a Tech12volt box Kenwood 9104D |
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