Toyota Tundra Forum

This is where you will be pulling the wire into the cab. Note that you will also use this same hole on the Passenger side to run your wires back to your trucks box/cap.


Below are (clockwise starting at top) Original Plug, Installed 1/4" Grommet, 1/4" Grommet not installed.


Once its pulled into the cab, it will look like this. (Behind drivers seat shown below)


Wrap some extra tape around the wires at point of entry to prevent wires from coming out of cab body.


Wire In your Relay - This is the relay I used, connecting the hot lead to terminal 78.
This prevents a relay terminal from becoming hot when its not in use.
I hooked the load side of the bed to terminal 30.
This relay is big amperage wise (Physically, its about 1" square), and does make a click when de-energized.
It's a nice audible confirmation that the power is off when it is switched off.

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
5.7L RC Longbox, 4X4 SR5

I was planning on putting these LEDs in grommets in the rear window trim but the switch had enough noise and blew them out when I tested them. I am still looking for a decent, indistructible light to put back there. I'm thinking part of an undercar light kit - any suggestions?


The back as wired, with trim still removed.


Now to the switches - To remove the bottom half of the dash, use the 12mm socket to remove the 2 screws that hold it down in the bottom corners.
Pull gently, yet firmly from around the steering column and at the lower left screw location to pop the left side loose, then do the same for the right side.
It's all one piece, but you'll need both hands to get just one side off.
The red x's below are non modifiable switch plates for the most part. I think you would need some kind of cable to relocate the LSD or RSCA switch to the same side, so instead, I installed in the existing blank plates shown in green (for now, until I find some factory switches off a Sienna?)


Wiring behind dash before re-installing dash.
Be sure that the dash panel will fit nicely when done, e.g. route over hood release cable.
Note: you'll want some more of that protective wire hose, the metal behind here is sharp.


To make a standard toggle mount in one of the switch plates, I had to remove the plastic gussets on the back of the switch plate.
A side cutter and utility knife work well, and the knife is handy when cleaning up after drilling the plate.
Predrill the center first with the 1/8" bit, then the 3/8" then the 1/2".

Attached Thumbnails

         

Pull the wires through the holes and remount the dash, then wire the switches.
Note that the yellow clip came off of the left tab below, simple to put back on and necessary to keep the dash solid.


Put the switches in and thats as far as I have gotten until I decide on a light and the truck cap is installed.
The switches I used had a blue LED in them, here they are installed.




ok, done for now until Truck cap comes in and I decide on a light for the back.
Simple Mod I know, but a first one for me on a new vehicle....
Let me know if you can/cant see the pics this time - THANKS!

Attached Thumbnails

     

You probably fed them too much juice. Those LEDs probably require like 3 volts max. You need to drop down the voltage you are feeding them and then they shouldn't blow.

__________________
Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved.

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, 55w reverse lights, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, colormatched exterior parts (de-chromed truck), eDead sound proofing, CDT Audio speakers, Custom made speaker brackets, Weathertech floor mats
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

They were fairly cheap and forgot to look to see if there was a resister in the 12v adapter they came with, but were surprisingly bright.
$8 at wallmart

Thanks for the tip on Adobe software, but I found a free one here: WinPDF - Create PDF documents and convert documents into PDF format for free
Be sure to set it to print as Image in printer setup though, it doesnt like some fonts.

There was a resistor in the plug, will finish up this week and post finished pics..

Cool Thank you, I'll have to check that one out when I get Home.

__________________

Your Welcome JT

Ok, here is the finish up on the LEDs in the back wall...
I did end up finding the resistor in the original LED pac, and put it inline with the LEDs, but I dont know what it was rated. I Also put in a couple spade connectors so I can take the panel out if needed, later.

The LEDs stretch out the grommets pretty good, went to a 5/16" bit and used a 1/2" to debur only.

View from behind panel


Also Pulled the fuse out one of the child restraint holes and made sure the resistors were accessable from there as well.


Its amazing how much light 6 LEDs throw.
Spaced them about 10" apart.
I took this after dark with the stock interior lights shut off.


Now, since this turned out so well, I'm thinking I might want to do the rest of the cab lights in blue. i.e. curtesy light (Bulb replacement?) and stock foot well LED.

Attached Thumbnails

     

That looks pretty good. And that is a lot of room behind the seats.