Toyota Tundra Forum

I'm looking to do a couple of mods to my truck tomorrow involving the Center seat and rear cab panel.
Does anyone have assembly/disassembly instructions for the center seat in the bench model and the plastic panel in the back of the cab?
What do you think about mounting a Sub under the center seat?
What do you think about adding an AC outlet through the front of the center seat, tied into a power inverter?
Any feedback would be appreciated - Thanks!

Bought TIS account but it looks like its down till the 4th.

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5.7L RC Longbox, 4X4 SR5

Hey Scout,

Here's some PDF's on the center front seat info.....

Attached Files

	Front center seat components.pdf (173.3 KB, 49 views)
	Front center seat disassembly.pdf (911.0 KB, 18 views)
	Front center seat resassembly.pdf (815.4 KB, 11 views)
	Front center seat installation.pdf (109.2 KB, 12 views)
	Front center seat removal.pdf (911.0 KB, 13 views)

Here's the PDF's for the interior....

Attached Files

	Interior components for regular cab.pdf (216.9 KB, 21 views)
	Interior removal for regular cab.pdf (693.5 KB, 20 views)
	Interior installation for regular cab.pdf (609.1 KB, 12 views)

Scout,

When you do get to use your TIS subscription here's a useful program to convert the files to PDF's. You have to get a subscription to the Adobe program, But you can use their site as a desktop printer and when you print the files it will go to their site and be converted to a PDF and then emailed to you. Here's the web address.........Create Adobe® PDF Online: Easily convert and create PDF documents

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Once again, thanks for the PDF files.

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2007 Tundra RC LB SR5 5.7L 4x4, Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller, JCW Side Bars, AMP BedStep, 12K+miles and no problems besides the tailgate beginning to fail.

Reposting below....w/pics

Were there supposed to pictures and I'm just not seeing them for some reason?

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Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved.

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, 55w reverse lights, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, colormatched exterior parts (de-chromed truck), eDead sound proofing, CDT Audio speakers, Custom made speaker brackets, Weathertech floor mats
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

Me neither all I see are

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Thanks Guys for the PDF data!

Changed my original objectives a bit: (Can a moderator retitle thread?)
This mod will add a power switch to light in Truck Cap & 25A Power Outlets, prewiring for a rear defroster fan/heater as well as some behind seat lighting for regular cab models only. (See PDF for schematic)

The standard wiring of 7-pin trailer hitch accessory pin on the Tundra is not hot all the time.
I believe it is hot only when engine is running.

No Drilling thru painted metal required.

Requires:
40ft red wire (12ga)
40ft black wire (12ga)
Inline Fuse holder (12ga)
20A Appropriate Fuse for style (Mini, Auto, Cartridge Auto)
30A rated Relay with 1/4" blade terminals
(I used an old Engine Disable relay left over from an alarm install where the option was not used)
Electrical Tape (3M Brand recommend due to dielectric strength)
3/8" Wire Guard Tubing (10ft minimum)
Wire Nuts
1/4" Grommets (2)
1/4" blade connectors
Butt Connectors (Yellow)
Switches (2) able to handle current required by relay coil and have 1/4" blade terminals
1/8" 3/8" and 1/2" dril bits and drill
Additional Soundproofing material (Optional)
Light (Mine is tbd)

Tools:
Wire Stripper
Crimp Tool
Side Cutter
Utility Knife
12mm Socket (Lower Dash)
10mm Socket (side panel under dash)
Removed back trim piece below window (pulls off without any tools)




Remove Storage Area Floor Protector starting on the Drivers side first. Remove the Nylon Push-in Rivits (Shown below) with a screwdriver (I am sure there is a tool for this, but I went with what I had) by prying them up carefully, dont let the phillips appearance fool ya, they pop straight up and pull out of the collar - (I broke 2 New Part No. forthcoming).


Remove Door Sill and collet piece under dash. These two pieces might be best removed together. First, remove the retaining nut way back behind the dash, which holds the side piece under the dash in place (This may require the use of the 10mm socket driver). Remove the sill by pulling it up gently. (Note: pic contains post wiring in red/black)

Attached Thumbnails

       

A little electricians tip for pulling multi-conductor wire:


I recommend using the 3/8" wire guard tubing and putting it on at this point.
When you get under the truck, you'll see a lot of heat shielding - the wires need it.


Now start Pulling Wire from battery,


Around behind electrical Box (mislabeled it battery box - its really the electrical box)


under brake lines (yellow arrow),


through part of wheel well and across top of frame until your behind the drivers side seat.
There is some shifting mechanism in this area. Be sure to tie wrap it in a way that wont interfear with the mechanism (keep it Outside the frame.)

Attached Thumbnails