Toyota Tundra Forum

Does anyone know if you can bypass KC's harness?

I believe that there is a black and red wire coming out of each of the four lights, obviously black going to ground and red going to power. They have some complicated switches, harness, one goes to battery, one goes to aux power, one goes to ground battery, one goes to ground chassis, there is a relay in it to integrate with your high and low beams, etc.

I just want all of them to come on at the same time and all to go off at the same time... when I want them on, I'll hit the switch.


Can I wire directly from an aux wire to the switch, the four red wires to the other end and then ground it? Do I need that relay? Do I need all the BS?

Is 12 gauge wire plenty thick enough? 14g? Any thoughts... In theory it would work, but does anyone have any experience? Do I need the relay?

Thanks.

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Base:

2007 Tundra Crewmax 4x4 SR5 in Slate w/TRD intake and exhaust kit

Aftermarket (thus far):

Katzkin Leather in Slate
Leer 100XQ w/ keyless entry (great feature)
Pioneer Avic Z2 modded (Head Unit)
Pioneer 2x AVD W7900 (Headrest Screens)
Pioneer GEX-P920XM (XM Radio)
Pioneer CD-IB100II (Ipod Integrator)

Other Babies:

2007 FJ and a 1950 Mercury, along with the custom slung beach cruisers

Bare with me, I am not computer savvy!

Use the relay. Wait, let me say it again. Use the relay. Relays are your friends. Relays stop your aux fuse from blowing and the aux wires from melting. The relay allows power to pass to the lights only when you want them to have power. Like if you only want the lights to have power when the parking lights are on, then wire the switch side of the relay to the parking lights. If you want them to only come on when the high beam is on, then wire the switch side to the high beams. Or if you want them to come on anytime the truck is running, then wire the switch side to the aux power. You get the idea.

Your power for the lights should come straight from the battery. This makes it easier when drawing that much power. You don't want the power running through the truck. The shorter the power wire, the better. A couple of feet doesn't make much of a difference.

Let's assume 14 volts for the truck. 460 watts/14volts = 33 amps. 14 gauge wire is rated for 32 amps plus you want a cushion in place so you should be using 12 gauge wire which is rated for 41 amps.

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2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

OK, I redid your drawing in case you really wanted to know how a single throw relay works. In the drawing I left it wired to the aux power which means the lights will come on anytime the truck key is turned. I prefer to wire the switch side to the headlights so that the KC lights would turn off when the headlights turn off. That way you are sure not to drive around during the day with them should you accidentally hit the switch.

Pins 85 and 86 can be swapped when wiring. Also the switch can be on the ground on pin 85 if that is easier to do.

Edit: One more thing, make sure the relay is BIGGER than a 30 amp relay. You don't want that thing frying the first time you turn them on. If it is 30 amps or less, you can use one relay for each pair of lights. Simple to do. Let me know if you need a drawing for that.

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Much appreciated! I will use it and wire them up in the next few days. You have been a great help w/ everything, thank you.

No problem. Let me know if you need anything else. Remember that you can ground those lights anywhere you want as long as they have a good ground connection. You could possibly ground them to the light bar if it's grounded pretty well. Also, you might need a ground for your switch if it is back lit.

BTW, that is going to be a LOT of light. I have two 100 watt Hellas on the front of my truck that come on with the high beams and the reflection from street signs can be blinding at times. Rarjar got to see them on from up close. But I love them on those country roads.

Yeah, they'll be great in Alaska... I bought two long range and two wide angles and they will be mounted on top of the FJ... I bought a kit that fits to my roof rack on there... I may drop a few more questions when I wire it up... Take care... Chris

Anybody found an "over the cab" light mount for the Tundra yet?
Better yet, pics of it installed too?
I've seen some on a BAJA truck, but not much into welding.

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5.7L RC Longbox, 4X4 SR5

That would be nice. i would like to see the same.

Yep, sure did.... got me a good tan, but had to wear sunglasses!! lol! Seriously, they are VERY bright, and it really lights up the landscape, especially with the headlights on bright.

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2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller

Finished the FJ lights this weekend. Thanks for the help Tox. I know it is a Tundra website but put a quick pic on anyway. Thanks again... Chris

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