I had a busy install weekend and finally got a 1/2 way decent pic of my truck with my new Romik running boards!
Full write up may not come until tomorrow, but have lots of pics to share.

Most people will have the general tools needed to do all listed except as noted.
Here's the list of mods and materials:

Rubber Antenna
1 - Meira Autoworks Universal (AT-RM1R)
Comes with screw in adapters for GM/FORD/CHRYSLER/JAPANESE

Brake Controller
Tekonsha P3
2 - Big zip ties
1 - Toyota Adapter

Fog Lights (OEM except Switch)
30' - #14AWG Wire
2 - Crimp on Connectors, Male
2 - Crimp on Connectors, Female
1 - Electrical Switch
? - Zip Ties
Special Tool:
Hex-T30 Bit - OEM switch install
Steering Wheel Puller?

1000W AC Inverter
1 - Coleman 1000W Inverter (PMP)
1 - 100A Waterproof Circuit Breaker (Buss Fuses - BP/CB185-100)
1- 20' #4AWG Jumper Cables
6 - 3/8" crimp on Lugs
1 - 5/16 bolt, 1" Long
1 - 5/16 flat Washer
? - Zip Ties
10' - High Temp Auto Wiring Loom
1 - 50' 120VAC Electrical Cable (three Outlet End)
1 - Male 120V Electrical Plug
1 - Electrical Tape, Roll
Special Tool:
Battery Crimper (Manual or Hydraulic)

120VAC Outlet in Bed
1 - 5/8" rubber Grommet
? - Zip Ties
10' - 5/8" High Temp Auto Wiring Loom

Camper Top Wiring:
Brakelight, Bed light/12V outlet controlled by the OEM Dash Bed Light Switch
1 - 20A Fuse/Fuse Holder
1 - 30A Relay
1 - 5/8" rubber Grommets
10' - 3/8" High Temp Auto Wiring Loom
? - Zip Ties
1 - 12VDC Outlet
1 - Crimp On splitter
1 - Electrical Tape, Roll
Connectors as necessary

A grateful thanks to all on the site who have posted install info, especially:
PS-Rage - Door Accessory Wire (I cut the right one the first try!)
mhadden - OEM Fog Light Switch
Toxarch - Reminding me to Get a Breaker for the Inverter
Many - Brake Controller Mounting Location input

Part Leftovers:
1 - Left and Right Fog Light hole Shrouds (blanks, not for fog lights)
1 OEM Switch Assy, Headlamp W/Fog (SR5) Toy Part# 84140-0C060
1 Manual Battery Crimper (Hammer/Anvil Type)


In all, I made 2 major electrical runs out the holes in the cab floor under the storage riser (Regular Cab):
1 - to the battery area
2 - to the rear of the Bed.
I mention this since these projects were done simultaniously.

Attached Images

Tundrascout.JPG (50.6 KB, 179 views)

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5.7L RC Longbox, 4X4 SR5
I-GUIDE (Covers most common general questions)

Thats a good picture.

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Interested in seeing more entries in your logbook.

Thank you sir.

re.ac.tor

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2007 Tundra DC SR5 4x4 Constructed & Purchased May 2007, 4.7L, Texas Ed., Enkei Wheels, Nautical Blue Metallic, Sirius InV, Line-X, Recon CCLs
Drug Information in Lay Language

Truck looks good.
Nice list, well organized and seemingly very complete.
Good job.

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2007 Reg. Cab, Longbed,5.7 SR5, TRD Exhaust, Cold Kit, Tow Package, Toytec 3" Front, 1" Rear, Recon - Running Lights, CCL's, Rear Lightbar,Maxxis Bighorn 285-65R18 MT, Custom Limited Mirrors --Led signals, Puddle lights, Dual underhood light mod, Tough Country rear bumper, E55 Projector Headlights 5000 K, Splitsec AFR Calibrator

would love to see some picks of your inverter install!!

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I am now a YODA Man
see picks of trinibob and friends

http://www.picturetrail.com/uid1276235

for bikes
http://www.sport-touring.net

That's a bad azz looking Tundra with the mods to match.

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Please Click for Sarah's Wish

Tundrascout, great picture. Would be a good picture to enter for truck of the month in my opinion.
Paul

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07 Tundra, slate metallic, regular cab, standard bed (6.5 ft. long) 5.7 engine, TRD dual exhaust, Steelcraft stainless step bars, Lund bug shield, Carriage Works billet grill insert, Weathertech vent visors, ScanGauge II, Code Alarm remote starter.

Lookin' good, sounds like a fun weekend.

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Nice truck!...Sorry about your penis.
2007 DC Tundra, 5.7L, Limited, Factory NAV, TRD, TRD Duals, TRD CAI
Truxxx 3" + 1" lift, Rear Supersprings, BFG TA/KO 305/65R18

Nice Picture.

I will second that request. I'd love to see the inverter and the bed plug.

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2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007,2008 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

Bear with me here, going to take a couple posts.

I cut off the ends of the #4awg 20' jumper cables and crimped on a couple 3/8" lugs. Then put it in 10' of wire loom, leaving about 5 feet on the cab end end. In hind sight, I wish I had taped the entire length of the loom closed with electrical tape.

The green wire is the 120VAC cable that goes back to the bed. I put a 120V male AC connector on it and just leave it plugged into one of the outlets in the inverter.

I then pulled the wire & loom down through the floor under the flat shelf shown above. I routed it through the 1-1/2" hole where the rubber plug is shown on the right in the picture below. (I removed the previous run (shown in pic below) I had going through the 3/8" hole, replugged the hole and put that run in the loom too, just to tidy up a bit - there was plenty of room).


Down below, I had to run the cable carefully and with plenty of zip ties to keep it off of the brake connections and lines that are located right below the hole. I didn't have the brake lines supporting the cable.

On a side note, pulling cable this size can be a challenge. When you are working with thick wire, always try to let it "flow" as much as possible - if you are fighting it, you probably need to run it a different way as it will shift by itself or break free of tie wraps later otherwise. It does have a mind of its own, but if you let it do its thing, it will vertually hold its position once its all done.

Once that was done, ran it along the top of the frame up to a spot where a tube was running partially through the wheel well, but mostly guarded by a debris shield.
Rear of front drivers side wheel well.




From this spot it gets a bit touchy. You want to be careful not to run it to far back up into the battery area, as there are many heat shields in this areas, so I tie wrapped it in place behind them where possible.

There are a plethora of little wires running all over the top of the cable as I pulled it, like 2 going to the brake system master cylinder.

Next Post...

Attached Images

	BAC Routing 5.JPG (47.1 KB, 192 views)
	BAC Routing 2.JPG (38.3 KB, 133 views)
	BAC Routing 1.JPG (32.2 KB, 131 views)
	BAC Routing 4a.JPG (38.2 KB, 132 views)
	BAC Routing 6.JPG (48.9 KB, 132 views)