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| Worklog - Road Rage II I have this ongoing thread posted on two other forums on the 'net so I suppose I should also run it here. Its an ongoing project that I'd like to see complete at least before the snow flys. These posts are linear BTW. They are a little more organized on my website. Enjoy the ride and if you have any questions or if anything is unclear please ask within the thread. When I first ordered the Tundra in early March, I also began ordering the stereo equipment for it. Although all the parts have not yet come in, I've finally got some time to book a week off and get this project rolling. As promised, here is the worklog of the installation. This BTW, is the second time I've taken on a project of this nature (thus the "II"). If you are curious here is the first one. ![]() ![]() ![]() . Got a pile of stuff to install this time: ![]() ![]() ![]() . |
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| Another simple mod. Installed a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. ![]() . Anyway, back to "real" mods. TIme to start installing all this stuff. I pulled off the back wall to reveal the factory sub: ![]() The back wall is laid flat to make sure everything is going to fit back there. No crossovers yet but it looks OK. ![]() Here is one the 10" Type X subs that will replace that little OEM unit: ![]() My original idea was to make a wedge-shaped box behind the rear seat but there is no way these subs are going to fit sideways. So the new plan is to have the subs down-firing. With this decision made, I created a cardboard mock-up to find the correct fit: ![]() ![]() Satisfied with the cardboard dummy's fit, the parts are cut from 3/4" MDF: ![]() ![]() Tomorrow I will screw and glue it together and maybe start on the fiber glass . |
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| Even though I still don't have my front components yet (Alpine SPX-17PRO) I was going to just hook everything up and use the JBL speakers for now. ![]() However, I discovered that the existing components are actually bi-amped and since I don't happen to have crossovers sitting around to use, I've decided to put the amplifier/speakers part of this project on hold and just work on the electronics. The first device I decided to install is the Alpine NVE-N872 navigation system. Since it is DVD based, it has to be mounted flat. With such a large truck, you wouldn't think finding a flat surface to install it would be difficult - wrong! The bench seat in the back folds almost flat to the floor squashing anything under it and there are ventilation ducts under the front seats. Finally, I just decided if I was careful, I could mount it under the driver's seat. So, out comes the seat. You gotta love new trucks. The seat bolts release so easily! Three plugs later and here we are: ![]() The brackets are turned outwards and mounted to the "humps" the seat is bolted to. The power cabling runs to the trough in the door sills and the display and signal cables are run to the hump and through the center console. ![]() While I had the seat out, I also ran the majority of cabling that will be required for the electronics in the back (optical, AI-Net, etc). Nav unit installed: ![]() . |
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| I hate magnetic antennas and, of course, that is exactly what the Alpine nav unit came with. So, I ordered a Motorola PMAN4000 permanent mount active GPS antenna. ![]() My original intention was to mount it dead center at the front of the cab. However, the motor for the moonroof is there. It hangs down too low to mount with the other antennas (would be in the path of the glass) so I decided to mount it way off center. This antenna requires a 1" hole ![]() ![]() Not being entirely trusting of adhesive pads, I also put RTV on the inside of this hole (the other antennas all have rubber gaskets). The coaxial cable is run inside of the driver's side A-pillar. These come apart like this by the way: ![]() Gently pry on the back until it begins to slide out then you can release the front. Two 10mm bolts and the whole thing pulls free with ease: . |
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| While the headliner is pulled down, I decided to install the microphone for the Alpine KCE-300BT BlueTooth module. I removed the OEM microphone and put it in the same location: ![]() The mic cable was also run down the A-pillar and into the center console. The BlueTooth module itself was installed inside the storage box: ![]() Finally in the headliner, is the question of that OEM backup camera. Not sure what I was expecting, but I didn't see anything that looked like it would be connected to a camera. A quick drive over to the dealership proved that it was indeed this little connecter towards the front: ![]() ...but again, this is not what you would expect video on. There was four wires taped together as per the schematic: ![]() To be safe, I pulled the tailgate apart and checked for continuity on the wires: ![]() Sure enough, these are the right wires. So I spliced a sheilded cable to the video feed (red V+, grey V-) and a red/black cable for the camera power (black B+, white GND): ![]() From the factory harness: Black = 12v (CA+) <-- accessory power must be brought to here White = Ground (CGND) <-- ground must be brought to here Red = Center of coax (V+) Grey = Shield of coax (V-) Again, these were fished down the A-pillar and over to the center console. . |
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| The nav unit can be controlled by voice. I installed the speak button on a lower control panel next to the VSC switch: ![]() The microphone for the nav unit is installed next to the radio control head (center console in front of cig lighter plugs) : ![]() . |
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| Finally, I can install the head unit. I'm using an Alpine IVA-D105 multi-media unit. Since I cannot install my own amplifiers, I have to use the JBL for now. I bought a Axxess TYTO-01 level shifter/harness to connect the two together. You can see it here along with the zillion wires from the head: ![]() The navigation unit needs a connection to the speed sensor. Again looking in the schematics, I find it conveniently is located in one of the harnesses that was connected to the JBL: ![]() It is pin 4 of connecter K9. Looks like this: ![]() ![]() Also required from the JBL harness is the connections for the steering wheel controls. The schematic shows it to be pins 6,7 and 8 on connecter K3 (brown, light green and grey): ![]() ![]() The steering wheel interface unit says to install a 560 ohm resistor between pins 7 and 8: ![]() Don't think I mentioned it earlier but all spliced connections are protected with heat shrink: ![]() . |
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| I need both B+ and switched B+ for all the electronics. I fed a temporary run of #10 from the battery, through the firewall to the driver's side kick panel (temporary because I will be bringing a heavy line to the amplifiers later). Switched B+ is a bit more of a trick though. I discovered the cigarette lighter is a true ignition switch turning immediately on and off with the key. I don't smoke anymore and the plug is covered by the radio head so I cut the switched line from it and fed it over to the coil of a 30A relay: ![]() ![]() . |
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