I purchased the 1" diff drop kit for my 2007 Tundra 5.7L SR5 CrewMax and am lying in water thinking that this will be a quick and easy install...DAMN!

It says to save the nut and washer when you remove the stock bolt; however, I can't get a wrench on the nut above the control arm...too tight. How on God's green earth am I supposed to loosen a nut and then get it back on if I cant get a wrench around it to even hold it in place?!?!?!?!?!?!? What size is that damn nut that I am saving??

Is this nut welded to the frame and only the bolt comes loose? Please tell me that is the case and I dont have to worry about that. What am I doing wrong??!??

Thanks for the quick response...I have to get this done tonight.

Chadrick

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2007 Tundra 5.7L CrewMax
1982 Supra restored, swap pending
http://www.chadrick.net

No, the nut is not welded in place... like it should be. I had to get a crescent wrench above the cross member and hold it in place. It's a pain to get your hand up there and find the nut and hold it in place. The nut SHOULD be the same size as the bolt, but don't quote me on that. Hold it with the crescent wrench and then loosen the bolt. the bolt will come out and the nut will be loose above the cross member. Be careful getting the nut out of there. My differential drop came with a new bolt and nut but the instructions said to keep the old one to reuse. It was a pain to do on my truck. I think I got my hand stuck once and also cramped up trying to get my hand in place to hold the wrench. Also lost the nut for a good 10-15 minutes. That was not fun.

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2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007,2008 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

The last part of Toxarch thread has the info http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/sus...lots-pics.html

The nut ss not welded. I used a impact, which one hit loosened it. I don't remember what size it is, but the knuckles were sore after wards to get the nut started.

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If you consider cars sacred objects, and find yourself treating them with adoring reverence, while others consider your enthusiasm to be fanatically extreme, then you are a certified car nut….like me !!!!


2007 Tundra DC 5.7 4X4 with very fast Radiant Red slapped on.
Custom painted engine cover(Godzilla)
One set chrome mannly truck nutz.
Putco chrome tow mirror covers and tail gate handle.
Replaced door handles with chrome.
Raptor oval nerf bars.
18X9 Ultra Goliaith wheels +25 offset, chrome.
Truxx 3/1 Level, 1in Differential Drop.
35X12.50-18 Nitto Mudd grapplers. Inflatted 35.04 H and 12.20 W.
15% tint fronts.
American Aluminum low profile tool box, carpeted.

Oh yeah, like SRTRIDE said, use an impact wrench. I wouldn't attempt the lift without one.

damn....ok....I will see what I can find....i might have to go buy a smaller crescent...that nut should be welded on there...damn near impossible....this job should be finished by now! Thanks....thought maybe I was way off here...nice to know I am only as crazy as other Tundra nuts.

Hold on a second and I'll let you know what size it is.

Its 19mm.

After looking at my write-up, I used a small adjustable crescent wrench to hold the nut. And be sure to support the front differential with a jack when you remove the bolts or it might fall.

Wow...that was a big PITA ! ! ! ! ! At least it is installed. I have some issues with this kit I wanted to make others aware.

I purchased the ToyTech 1" Differential drop kit (PN: TU-DR-07)

As you can tell from my first post, have fun trying to stabilize and hold on to the nut above the crossmember...If it wasnt for that issue, this would have been a 10 minute job. It would be best to track down very small-handled tools for this job.

1) Called tech support prior to signing online and they stated that they did not have problems installing this kit...maybe I am technically challenged, but I think not.

2) Tech support stated that they shipped extra nuts to use as spares and that I could use the OEM ones...This is NOT true! I had to remove the OEM ones once I noticed that the threads slipped... thread patterns were not the same. USE THE NUTS AND BOLTS FROM THE KIT

3) Make sure you have a flexible magnet so that you can retrieve the nut when you drop it in the corner of the crossmember...dont ask!

4) There were shims supplied for the skid plate...you will want to tape these on for a quick install but a permanent glue will be applied to mine the next time I change my oil so that they will not move again.

5) All three of the rear bolts to be used with the shims/skid plate were not the same. The thread pattern was the same; however, one required a different socket in order to install (Very disappointed to mix and match bolts on my Tundra!)
Overall, the materials seem to be good; however, the different bolt sizes and thread patterns make this a frustrating kit. Best of luck to those that choose this...cheap price but had too many headaches.

I hope that you find this helpful...I sure would have prior to being under the Tundra.

Chadrick

I didn't have any issues with mixed threads with the truxx kit. Glad you where able to get it installed.