Toyota Tundra Forum

I'm still getting all the pictures together from the build, but I thought I would post up a couple of finished pics for people to see. Then I'll add the build pics lower down in the thread.

Here's a picture of what I look like coming down the road:



Truck and grill are still dirty, so that's why the dirt on the grill is lit up.

Lights off:

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2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

I think if you stand in front of the lights for a while, you'll get a tan. I also might blind the deer as I come up on them and then they wouldn't know where they are running to.

Now I will definitely know which NB is yours is I see you coming down the road!

I'll keep my welder's goggles handy!

re.ac.tor

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'10 CM SR5 4x2, S.A. Built & Purchased Sept '09, 5.7L, Sandy Beach Metallic, Drug Information in Lay Language

First you have to install the black CW grill and mount it almost flush with the chrome surround. That is the only way to get the room for these lights because of the hood safety latch. Otherwise, some low profile driving lights might be required.
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/ext...html#post10653


You also have to relocate the hood safety latch handle. It's a very simple design and blends well with the grill. I had to make 2 of them. The first one had the center screw in the way when I shut the hood. So I made a larger one to move the screw over.
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/ext...html#post19158



I'll do some brief descriptions of what I did and you can ask questions if you have them. If I have an answer, I will post it. Everything was done in 1/8" steel (1.5"x1.5"). Did I need to go with steel that thick? No. But that's the thinnest the metal shop carried. It was under $8 for 8 feet from them and about $8 for some flat 1.5" steel 4 feet long from Home Depot.

Here's some easy designs and mock ups to test if they will fit.




Looking for places to mount my brackets:




And now the lights that are going in:



Brackets welded up and held in a vise. My initial measurements were off by 1/2 inch (too low). So I had to build them up a little higher. It looks alright and is not noticeable.







Had to mod the hood just a little to allow the hood to close. This is a picture looking up at the hood. See the wide black line? That is the plastic part around the grille. I cut out notches in that wide plastic part for the lights. This way, the lights can be closer to the grille and the hood won't hit the lights as it closes.


And now the paint. Two coats of primer. 3-4 coats of paint It turned out great, but then I had to drill some extra holes and paint again. That didn't look as good. Still, it's behind the grill so no big deal. It turned out OK after the partial respray. And yes, those are hangers use to hold the parts during the spray. Maybe these will help if you want an idea of the design of the brackets.










Wiring up the lights and pics of the bracket in place. I ran a ground wire from the top bolt down to the horns and the lights.





Wiring put into split loom. Horns were relocated right below the lights and mounted on the same bracket.




Here is the clearance notch I cut out just to make sure the lights don't hit the brackets on bumps.





Measuring space from the back of the light to the AC condenser:


Tapping into the high beam power to switch the relay and covering in loom.



This is with the battery removed. The relay on the left is for the fog lights and the relay on the right is for the new driving lights.


The finished pics with the lights on are posted above. I will do some day light pics later.

That split loom stuff is a PITA. I used some when wiring up my fogs last week.

Very nice work and thanks for taking the time to take pics and do the writeup.

re.ac.tor

Great writeup/pics Tox, and even better DIY install. Looks good... can't wait to see them this weekend in San Saba!

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2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller

I'll be there. They look a lot better in person. You should see me coming once I make that turn in town.

I hear that... it'll look like the sun is rising in the west! lol!

BTW, Tox, I didn't see a pic where you moved your horns... did I just miss it?

Well, night blindness sure won't be a problem for you!

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Extang Trifecta, Prodigy brake controller

Ride fast, shoot straight!

Look below the arm that the lights are mounted on. I drilled a hole in the angled steel and mounted the horns below the lights. I had to loosen the nut on the back of the horn to turn the mounting bracket. Also ran the same ground wire to the light and the horn to make sure they were grounded properly. The horns now point outward instead of down like they were originally.



Did you know that each horn plays a different note? One is a high pitch and the other is a lower pitch. I connected one to make sure each side was working alright. The one I connected was the higher pitch one and I thought something had happened to the horn or it wasn't supposed to be mounted facing outward. Then I thought about the horn sound and realized they were two notes.