Toyota Tundra Forum

These lights are actually driving lights and not fog lights. So they have a very narrow beam and I'm not sure how well they would work in fog. They will however add some nice light to your low and high beam lights. This is the install of the driving lights in the factory location for the fog lights. I will call them fog lights in this write up.

So I have an SR5 truck and no TRD package. That of course means no fog lights on my truck. I had to go on a search for a good alternative to fit and look stock to the common man. I measured the flat part of the blanks and came up with 5 inch fog lights needed for the truck. Should be easy to find I thought. So I started searching. I needed some that looked good and were also not terribly expensive. Didn't want to have to shell out a lot of money should they ever catch a rock and crack. I was willing to spend around $100 when I went looking. Turned out there weren't that many offered in a 5" size. Hella made some with a black or red border that might work but I think their low end ones were $110+ each. I came across these Street Scene lights at a couple of sites and thought they might work really well. Plus the price was pretty nice.

5" Round Street Scene Equipment Driving Light Kit 950-30022

$66 plus shipping for 55 watt driving lights sounded alright to me. So I purchased and waited. Sent the guy an e-mail after a couple of days to find out when they would ship. He got it shipped out a couple of days later.

I finally got around to installing them yesterday evening. I had done a rough fitting to see if they would fit and I thought they would fit pretty well. Well, I was mostly right. They would fit the cut-out blanks really well, but not the factory mount like I thought. Also, they say you can mount them right side up or inverted. Because of the factory mount, I had to mount them sideways. It's OK I guess since they are narrow beam driving lights, but it would be bad for fog lights.

Also, just so you aren't terribly confused, the pictures are half from one side of the truck and half from the other side. So use the pictures as reference but know that half way through, they switch sides because the camera battery ran out in the middle.

The Install:

Here's a rough list of what you will need for the install. Not everything is in the picture.



Drill
Drill Bits
Flat Head Screw Driver
Socket wrench
10 mm socket
10 mm crescent wrench
black sharpie
Small blade hack saw (saber saw or dremel will work too)
1/4" Plexiglass (can be substituted. I had some laying around)
Bolts, washers and screws (any size to mount the light)

Park the truck and turn the wheels away from the side you will be working on first. That will make it much easier to get to the back side of the fog lights. It will look something like this in the front of the wheel well:



Now you need to remove seven screws and clips. All the screws take a 10 mm socket. If the ones you are trying to loosen are not 10 mm, then you are trying to loosen the wrong screws. There are 2 black screws in the mini mud flap at the bottom of wheel well. There are two screws under the truck in front of the wheel well, there is one clip on the engine side of the front of the wheel well, and there are two clips that are in the front of the wheel well closest to you.


After these seven fasteners are out, it is safe to remove the front of the wheel well. I found no easy way to do it. The wheel got in the way and it's in there pretty good. But it's a soft plastic so it's not terribly tough to pull out.

Now use the flat head screw driver and insert it from the front of the truck into the edge of the fog light blank closest to the center of the bumper. Careful not to scratch the bumper. (right side of picture)



(See next picture for location of 3 tabs in the bumper holding the blank.) Carefully pry that edge closest to the center of the bumper out until it unhooks from the bumper. It is still attached in two other places. The upper attachment is the one you want out first. Pull down a little on the blank and that side should pop out. Now lift the blank up and away from the bumper and the last tab should come out and look like this:



See the tab in the back of the picture? That is the factory mount that we are going to attach the fog lights to. It's not terribly thick so it can be bent a little with some muscle if needed.

Now we need to cut the blank so the fog light will fit it. For this you can use a small hack saw, saber saw, dremel, maybe a knife, whatever you are comfortable with. I couldn't find the dremel or the saber saw. I looked for a long time. So I went with the small bladed hack saw.

Drill a small hole in the black. I did it near the edge of the short side. You want to get close to the edge on this one side because there is a wire that has to squeeze in that side for the halo lighting on the fog lights. Take the saw apart, pass the blade through the hole and then reassemble the saw. Now you can slowly cut your hole. You don't want to cut right on the edge. Cut a little inside and that will help to friction hold the fog light. Not necessary but might keep any rattles down.



And once you are done you end up with something like this:



Just go slow and be careful and you will be fine. It doesn't have to be perfect. Now slide the fog light into place and you can see if any more need to be trimmed.





Now here is where I ran into my snag. My eyeball test fitting was off a little. The factory mount is too far back. The fog light mounts wouldn't reach.





I could cut the blanks a little more and have the fog lights recessed a little, but I didn't think that would look that great. I could drill a new hole closer to the front of the factory mount. But there's not a lot of room in there for a drill. So I would have to remove the bumper and maybe the wheel. Too much effort. I could get an angle bracket from a hardware store. That could move the mount up and over so that the mount for the fog light was in the right place and I could mount the light on straight. All the hardware stores were closed.

Then I thought about extending the fog light mounts. I needed something short and somewhat strong to extend them. I could find some short metal pieces. But them I have nothing handy to cut it with. The dremel could do it but it was missing. Then I thought about the Plexiglass I had laying around. It is 1/4 inch thick and plenty strong enough to hold. I scored a could of pieces and broke off what I needed. The pieces are 2.5" long and roughly 1.5" wide. I held the piece in place and marked where the mounts were.



Then got out the drill and drilled the holes out near the middle of the marked holes. (Do the third hole for the factory mount later)



Then I used some bolts, wahers and nuts I had laying around to make the fog light mounts longer. Here's a picture of the normal mount and the mount with my extension:





I put the mount back on the fog light and then held it in place to put in the last bolt. I would suggest not doing the third hole until now. My markings ended up a little off and didn't line up with the factory mount. If you mark it and drill it now, then you know it is in the right position. Also, make it just a little loose fitting in the blank. That will give you just a little room to aim the lights. Here is a picture of it mounted:



I think that should hold great. Metal might have been a little nicer but there's little to worry about doing it this way. Plus the plexiglass is much easier to drill.

I pulled the truck out into the driveway to test and aim the lights. I just did a temporary wiring job using the wiring that came with the lights. It has everything needed, but the wires are way too short. I had to run the wiring from the battery behind the bumper to get it to reach the right side light.

I aimed the lights approximately where they should go and tightened it all up. The 10 mm crescent wrench helped to reach the screws on the fog light.

Took a picture outside with the flash but it didn't come out very good. I think the reflection from the license plate made the rest of the picture too dark.



I'll post daytime pics later.

Now I just have to wire everything up. Unfortunately it was 12:30am at this point and I don't have everything I need. So wiring it up will have to come later. The rocker switch won't be here until maybe this friday. I might wire it all up before then, not sure yet.

I need some factory fog light wiring diagrams if anyone has them. It's wired for fog lights. I need a Denso relay and need to know where the wires are under the dash.

EDIT:
Took some daylight pictures when I got home. Also found the switches I ordered in the mailbox. They are a little stiffer than I like and they make a loud click. They might be alright. I'll have to make sure they fit first and then install later this week.





If one of the mods could move those post to the second post, it would be much appreciated. I already have a post there reserved for this.

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Here is the install of the after market switch for the fog lights. I could not find an OEM one that would fit the blanks in the gen 2 Tundra. So I took one of the switches that fit the gen 1 Tundra (and Scions) and altered the blank space to make it fit. The wiring harness that came with the fog lights was way too short to fit the truck and had to be lengthened by soldering on extra wire with shrink tube over the connections. If you don't want to solder on new wire you could do crimp connections and be fine.

First I pulled apart the dash and console to see if I could find the factory wiring and a place to install the switch.



The center console had a plug behind each of the blanks. None of them looked like what I was looking for.



The right side of the steering wheel also had plugs behind them. The far right one looked promising, but I couldn't get it to send power to the fog lights (with a relay in place) so I guess it wasn't the one I wanted.



So anyway, I want about making the switch I bought fit in place. First I ground down the back of the blank space. The blanks taper down in size and my switch would not fit as they are. They also have notches on the sides so factory switches only fit in certain spots. I should have left a little on the sides to hold the switch better. But this worked OK





After that, the switch was still just a little too tall. So I took the switch apart and ground down the top and the bottom just a little to make it fit. Then I put the top of the switch in place before reassembling it in place. I ground the left and right side of the switch in the next picture.



And here is the top and the bottom of the switch. Sorry for the blurry pictures.



Anyway, the switch is siliconed in place and shouldn't move at all. I used a couple of plastic pieces on either side of the switch to center it since I took off the complete back of the blank. If you use the same switch, leave a little piece on either side of the back of the blank while grinding out the center top and bottom.

Here the switch is installed in the blank. It's not exactly the same as the factory switches, but it's to the left of the steering wheel so it's not really seen anyway.




So on with the wiring. I just went to Lowes and got the bulk wire in the length I needed. 14 gauge stranded wire is plenty for the 55 watts that each of these lights output. Should be OK for a lot more than that too. I also got some split loom while I was there. That will protect the wires from the weather and is like an extra jacket should the wire rub anywhere from wind or bumps or whatever reason and gives it a factory wiring look.

In the following picture, you can see the black wire that is soldered on the left, the white wire with the shrink tube in the middle, and the split loom on the right.



And here is the back of one of the lights with my new split loom running to it.



Hood open and loom running between the lights in front of the radiator and behind the bumper.



I tried my best to take apart the fuse box without destroying anything. I was going to rewire the factory relay spot to use with my wiring so I could use their fuse and relay location. Couldn't do it easily even though I tried for a long time.

Here is where I ended up wiring the relay. This is next to the battery on one of the ground screws. It was an easy and convenient location. Wiring runs from the battery to the relay and split from here to inside the truck and down to the left fog light and from left to right light. This is not the final install of the relay.



Here is behind the left light. Wiring comes from the relay and then over to the other fog light.



I wired the fog lights to only come on when the parking lights are on. That means I can turn off the regular light switch and it will automatically turn off the fog lights and then turn them back on again when the parking lights are turned back on.

Here, I tapped into the parking light power. These can be found just about anywhere and are great to use for tapping into existing wiring. They can be bought at Lowes, or HD, or an auto store, or WalMart. Just tap into the purple wire and this is your switch for the relay. I also used this for the halos on the lights too. So when the parking lights turn on, the halos turn on too.



Here, I am running the wiring into the truck. I use a stiffer wire to feed it through the grommet in the firewall. Then I tape my wires to that stiff wire and pull them through. I ran it next to the hood release cable.




Here is the finished wiring covered in loom going into the fire wall.



You have to pull down the carpet and padding a little above the pedals to find the grommet hole. The red and white wires are my wires. The red wire went to the battery to power and the white wire goes to the relay. My switch completes the circuit to power the lights.



I also needed a ground for the switch's light. There is one under the left kick panel. I wrapped everything in electrical tape to make it look better under the dash.



Here is the finished look of the relay. The battery is at the top of the picture and the fender at the bottom. The relay is the small black square. The rectangle to the right of it is the fuse for the lights.



Here's a better description of the switch wiring for the switch I used:


Here's a final picture with everything back together. The light switch is the one one the right.



This is what it looks like with the fog lights off:



And this is what it looks like with the fog lights on:



Nobody riding in the truck can see the switch and the driver has to lean over to even see it. The light is not too bright so it's not a nuisance.

__________________

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

So I redid the mounts for my fog lights. I removed the plexiglass mounts I made and I was going to make an angled piece that attached to the factory mount and allowed the fog lights to be mounted right side up instead of 90 degrees on its side. If I did that, then I still had the problem of the fog light mounts being so far forward so I could mount it like Doooode did. Though the factory mount seems to flimsy once it has some weight on it.

I decided to do something like RPAspey did in his install.

http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/ele...t-install.html

He used a piece of steel and bent it into a curved piece to become a mount for his fog lights. I decided to try out a piece of aluminum to do the same thing. It came out pretty nice but it might shake a little on big bumps. I'm happy with it for now. I only took a couple of pics since you can follow his instructions and do the same thing. But here are the ones I have. The first one is the drawing of my bracket over his drawing so you can see the difference between their sizes.



And here is my bracket mid-build:


And here it is installed. Kinda hard to see it in the back and kinda hard to screw it all together in such a small area.


I will say that the way Doooode mounted his was the way I was thinking of doing it and should work. I just don't like how easily the factory mounts bent. Here was his install to refresh people's memories:

http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/ele...te-switch.html

Good work man!.. install looks decent so far. I think this will be a common mod for all of us SR5 guys out there..

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CrewMAX 5.7 SR5
Surrey, BC Canada

LINE-X Bed Liner, Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller, ScanGauge II

Geddes Family Homestay - Hosting international students in Vancouver, Surrey

I loaded up some daytime pictures. Added them to the end of the first post. Enjoy.

Looks Great and one heck of a good write up.

Here's a couple of Foglight applicable documents and I'm looking for the true schematics with wire colors etc which you would think would be in the lighting folder but aren't? The search is on!

Attached Files

	foglight ckt.pdf (185.8 KB, 200 views)
	foglight relay.pdf (90.8 KB, 102 views)

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Good Gawd that is one ugly Tundra.

Squid, thanks for checking for those wiring documents. I really appreciate the help. Maybe it would be in something that goes with the steering column lighting control. For factory lights and control, you have to replace the turn signal stalk with one that has fog light control.

One person on another forum had inquired about factory fog lights and asked them about putting in a rocker switch. Apparently one of the blanks is already wired for a fog light rocker switch. We just have to pull out the blank and wires are attached to the back. That would be really nice if that were the case. Then we could just put in the rocker switch, a factory relay, and splice the factory wiring where the fog lights are and be done. I may pull part of the dash off and have a look before I try anything.

Also, when I was putting the wheel wells back together, I thought of a couple of things. In my write up, I said we needed to remove the 2 black screws and the mini front mud guard. Turns out that is not needed since those screws are just to attach the mud guard and do not connect it to the metal body of the truck.

Another thing is the factory mount for the fog lights. It could possibly be bent over so that the fog light mounts directly to it. It's a thin metal and will move with a little muscle. I didn't find that out until I was done and aiming the lights. You might have to watch out for chipping paint if you try it that way since it needs to be bent over a pretty good distance. You could use a spray primer to paint over it in case it chips or cracks. Just a thought if someone else is trying this themselves. But try that at your own risk.

Still can't find a real schematic but I did find the ECU connector break down which has wire colors and I included the stalk but as you'll see it's pretty disappointing.

I'll keep plowing ahead.

Attached Files

	ecu connector wires.pdf (102.4 KB, 76 views)
	headlight dimmer switch.pdf (286.5 KB, 72 views)

The one for the stalk has a little promise. In the stalk plug, it shows pins 3 and 4 are for the LFG and BFG. These are for the fog lights, but what does the "L" and "B" stand for?

Great info for a mod I'd like to do!

Carl

Yesterday I popped out one of the blanks to see if my Scion switches would fit.

Scion OEM Style LED Rocker Switch

The switches are indeed too big to fit without some modification to the truck. The switches fit in other Toyotas so I thought they might fit in ours. They are too tall and would require some grinding on the mounting plate to make them fit. I'm just not positive I am set on this switch for my lights. They have a loud click when they are switched and do not sit flush. I'll see if I can find a better alternative.