Toyota Tundra Forum

There's been a few threads discussing detailing vehicles, So here's some info I dug up off the net. Feel free to add any links, ideas or lessons learned to make this a usefull guide to all that might have any questions.

Proper Washing & Drying Technique

Are you washing your car, or just damaging the paint?
Most of the swirl marks that disfigure your vehicle are likely caused by poor washing technique. Thorough weekly washes and careful hand-drying can be the best care you can give your vehicle. Improper techniques will cause unsightly swirls and scratches in the paint requiring compounding or polishing at the very least. You can eliminate these problems and save yourself extra work by following a few simple tips when washing and drying your vehicle.

Are you washing weekly or weakly?

Weekly washing is best because some contaminants quickly do serious long term damage to paint if they are allowed to remain. Two such organic compounds are bug splatter and bird droppings. These bio-hazards contain complex proteins that bond to the surface and nourish biological processes and organic acids that penetrate and break down the surface eating into your clear coat if not removed promptly. Weak spots in the clear coat make your vehicle susceptible to corrosion and discoloration.

Another problem contaminant is brake dust. It contains metal shavings from the rotors and adhesives used in the production of brake pads. Try to picture the dirty plume of brake dust and roadway chemicals that travels along with a moving vehicle. This fog of chemicals shower the lower portion of your vehicle with a clinging, nearly invisible mist. Brake dust itself, is highly corrosive and very sticky. Washing your vehicle weekly will remove these contaminants before they have the opportunity to do unsightly permanent damage.

Wash Tools

First Never wash in direct sunlight. Pick a shady spot. Second it’s very important to choose tools that are gentle on the paint, yet still effective at removing contamination. As a rule of thumb, sponges and mitts that are plush or have a deep nap are better than flat weave towels or dense sponges. For example, a Natural Sea Sponge</B> has numerous deep compartments where dirt and debris can accumulate. The natural fibers themselves will not scratch the paint and they will essentially pull contamination into the sponge’s openings, away from the paint. Always use the softer side of the sponge for washing. Rinse new sea sponges thoroughly before use to remove any shell fragments or sand.

Another option is a Sheepskin Wash Mitt. Sheepskin is extremely soft and plush. The fibers are gentle on the paint while the nap is deep enough to accommodate loose dirt and sand so they do not rub against the vehicle. Because sheepskin is natural, it does not last as long as a Microfiber mitts. However, for luxurious softness, you can’t beat the texture of sheepskin.

Microfiber wash mitts are another paint-safe option. Microfiber’s combination of polyester and polyamide make it capable of scrubbing the paint without scratching or swirling. It traps dirt and grit within the fibers rather than leaving them on the surface of your vehicle. Be sure to rinse the mitt frequently to release these particles.

Cotton chenille pads and mitts are also good choices because they clean easily and they last longer than sheepskin or natural sea sponges.

Boar’s Hair Brushes are another option that enthusiasts are raving about. These paint-safe brushes are made with real boar’s hair! They hold a tremendous amount of soapy water and they provide excellent scrubbing ability. Plus, the hairs release dirt back into the wash water easily, so it doesn’t wind up back on your vehicle.

Proper Washing

1. Wash the wheels and tires first. If you splash wheel cleaners or dirt onto your vehicle, you can simply wash it off as you wash your vehicle. Use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels, like Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner.It is water-based and has no corrosive chemicals, which is safer for coated wheels and rubber. Agitate with an OXO or New England Wheel Brushto clean wheels without scratching. Wash each wheel and tire one at a time and rinse thoroughly before moving on to the next one. NOW EMPTY AND RINSE ALL CLEANING MATERIALS including your Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge and your OXO Caddy & Bucket Combo.
2. Now you’re ready to wash. Let’s start with clean water and a freshly rinsed container and our Cobra Microfiber Wash Mitt. It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dish detergents are not ideal because they remove protective coatings. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo, DP Auto Wash and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo are all fantastic choices. They do not remove wax and provide ample lubrication of gritty particles.
3. How do you prevent swirl marks? Use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you’re ready to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first, to rinse out the grit and contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.
   
   An even better option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination and particles settle to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.
4. Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your Sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.
   
   For stubborn spots, like bugs or tar, use the Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge to gently remove sticky contaminants without scratching. To soften the sponge, soak it in warm water for 3 minutes. Always use it with soapy water to lubricate the sponge. If you choose to use a spot cleaner, spray it on before washing and reapply wax to the treated area after you’ve dried the vehicle.
5. When rinsing, you don’t have to blast your car clean with the water hose. Free-flowing water (no nozzle) will allow the water to sheet off of your vehicle for a more thorough rinsing.

Drying

Never skip drying! Drying your vehicle after washing is necessary to prevent water spots. Water spots are caused by mineral deposits that etch the outline of a drop of water into your vehicle’s paint. All water has minerals, whether it’s from the hose or the sky. As the water evaporates, the minerals remain on the surface and they will eventually, invariably create water spots.

You can dry your vehicle in a variety of ways, but you want to make sure you do it quickly. The fastest way to remove excess water is with a California Water Blade. This is a “paint-safe” squeegee that pull 80% of the water off the surface of your vehicle. They are made of soft, medical-grade silicone so they will not scratch your paint or glass. Use the blade on the windows first, since water spots are most noticeable there.

Or, for a TOTALLY TURBO-CHARGED fast drying experience, go with Metro Vac N’Blo for a flawless finish. This is the ultimate detailing tool, for clean up and dry down. This portable unit comes complete with a four piece micro-cleaning tool kit, shoulder strap and blower nozzle.

If you use a California Water Blade you still need to use a towel to remove the rest of the water. The Ultimate Guzzler is a large 28" x 54" microfiber towel that is manufactured with a waffle-weave texture. This weave increases the surface area so the towel can absorb more water. It can absorb 7 times its own weight in moisture, and it’s completely nonabrasive. Microfiber towels come in a number of sizes and they can be altered for a specific purpose. For example, the Cobra Waffle-Weave Glass Towel will clean and dry glass without streaks. Microfiber is more absorbent than terry cloth or chamois, and it lasts longer.

Terry cloth towels are not recommended because the fibers can become matted and hard after repeated uses. They shed lint. They increase the chance of swirls. Compared to microfiber, they are not as absorbent and they don’t last as long. Never use bath towels that have been discarded from the house. They are probably not soft or paint safe. All Cobra Microfiber Towels are engineered to be LINT-FREE!

You may also use a genuine or synthetic chamois. The Prince of Wales Chamois is 100% leather and it’s extremely soft. Its luxurious texture makes it a pleasure to use, but it will not last as long as a synthetic chamois. Do not continue using it after it becomes hard. The Pittards Dry-Soft Chamois is another option. It is real leather, but it dries soft. Chamois are gentle on paint and they are more absorbent than terry cloth.

Drying Tips

• Dry the windows and mirrors first. A series of careful firm strokes with your California Water Blade will remove any remaining water.
• Use the large The Supreme Guzzler to remove the majority of water from your vehicle. This towel measures 20”x 40” and it absorbs seven times its own weight in moisture. Go back over the vehicle with a smaller towel, like the The Guzzler(16”x 24”) to catch any water the large towel may have missed. This quick two-step process will leave your vehicle bone-dry and ready for wax.
  
  
• Once the outside is dry, wipe down all your door jambs and sills. Open the trunk and hood to wipe the jambs. Our Cobra Microfiber Starter Kit can get you “off the mark” with the best in LINT-FREE drying technology.
• Dry your wheels using a towel or chamois that is designated just for this purpose. Don’t use this towel on your paint to avoid cross-contamination. You may also use this towel to wipe off surfaces under the hood. Wash this towel before you use it again.

The Finishing Touch

Use a spray wax or spray sealant like Mothers Showtime Detailer or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant to rejuvenate the shine of your existing wax. Skip this step if you are going to apply another coat of wax. The ultimate in finishing detail kits is the Pinnacle –Wolfgang Souverän Kit; two premium brands come together to make the ultimate detailing kit.

The Foam Gun Option

If the mitt and bucket method doesn’t do it for you, there’s always the foam gun option. The Foamaster Foam Wash Gun drenches your vehicle in suds to provide maximum lubrication between your wash mitt and your vehicle.

The Foamaster works by mixing a controlled amount of water and shampoo together inside a specially shaped nozzle. The solution is forced through the nozzle by the shear water pressure of your hose. It immediately mixes with air as it exits the nozzle and –behold! – lots and lots of foam.

You can maximize the amount of foam produced by your foam gun by filling it with DP Xtreme Foam Formula High Yield Foaming Auto Shampoo . This is the only car shampoo formulated specifically for foam guns. It’s super sudsy if you use it the old-fashioned way, too.

The Foamaster enables you to cover your vehicle in an even layer of suds. This won’t guarantee a swirl-free wash but, with a clean wash mitt or sponge, it will drastically improve your odds. You will still need to rinse your mitt frequently as you wash to get out all the grit.

Some people use the Foamaster to presoak the vehicle, which helps to loosen dirt. Others like to spray with one hand and wash with the other. Either way, you should wash from the top down and rinse the mitt often in clean water.

Clean Water Makes for a Clean Car

If you’re taking all the precautions every time you wash your vehicle and you’re still getting spots and swirls, the problem may be the water.

No water is pure. All water has minerals and most has some form of sediment. If your car shampoo (or hair shampoo) doesn’t lather well and your faucets and fixtures tend to turn green, you’ve got hard water. If water will not sheet off your vehicle and you’re constantly battling water spots, you’ve got hard water. Hard water is mainly caused by calcium and magnesium, which can be removed with a water softener.

Sediment is another common enemy of any paint finish. Sediment is actually dirt and rust in the water line. Water treatment plants filter out sediment but more sediment can enter the pipes between the plant and your home. This is why household faucets have screens in them. If you have well water, beware. You most likely have sediment and hard water.

A Clear Inline Hose Filter will clean and soften the water before it reaches your vehicle. Connect it to any standard garden hose hooked up to an exterior spigot. Insert a 5 micron sediment filter or a water softener cartridge to address your specific water problem. The filter is easy to install and its cost is nominal compared to amount of time and money you’ll save on paint care.

If you’ve got both water problems, get two hose filters so you can filter out sediment and soften the water before it exits the hose. The Deluxe Filter System includes everything you need to set up this simple, two-step filtration system. With a little preventative maintenance, your vehicle will rinse clean and have less water-related micro-marring.

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Learn the facts on Car wax!

You have two basic choices when it comes to paint protection: carnauba wax or synthetic. Here you’ll find information on each so you can choose the paint protection that’s right for you.

Carnauba Waxes

Carnauba wax is the preferred car wax of collectors and concours enthusiasts because it creates a rich, warm glow. It doesn’t appear to sit on the paint. It transforms the paint into a deep, liquid pool that shimmers under changing light conditions. The more carnauba wax, the more shine.

The wax is produced by the Brazilian Tree of Life, a palm tree, in order to coat its leaves. The wax provides protection from the sweltering sun and it sheds water so it falls onto the ground and is absorbed by the tree’s roots. If you think back to junior high science class, you might remember that plants absorb oxygen through their leaves. For this reason, carnauba wax is breathable. Good for the tree and good for your paint.

Carnauba is rock hard in its natural form. When the leaves of the Tree of Life are harvested, the wax flakes off as the leaves dry out, or they are put into a machine that removes the wax. It comes off in hard flakes. Car Wax makers have to blend the wax with oils, petroleum distillates, or a solvent called naptha (commonly used to thin wood varnishes and paints) in order to make the wax workable. The very best carnauba-based car wax is only about 1/3 natural carnauba. It’s probably for the best since the price gets higher and higher as the concentration of carnauba rises. When a product advertises “pure carnauba car wax” or “100% carnauba car wax”, they are referring to the purity of the carnauba that is in the product, not the product as a whole. One example is Mother’s California Gold Pure Carnauba Paste Wax.

That brings us to grading. Carnauba is harvested and then graded according to color, purity, and where it was grown. Trees grown in the northern area of Brazil produce the highest grade carnauba. The yellow wax is the most pure and therefore receives the highest grade. This is the grade most commonly used in high end car waxes and in the pharmaceutical industry. (They coat pills in it so they go down easier.)

Some manufacturers refine the yellow wax again into an ultra-pure white wax to ensure that the wax produces the clearest, most reflective gloss once applied to the paint. Such is the case with Pinnacle Souveran and Pinnacle Signature Series II.

As you’ve already read, carnauba protects the leaves of a palm tree from the intense heat and humidity experienced in Brazil. The carnauba car wax repels water and, consequently, most contaminants. When applied to any surface, carnauba retains these characteristics. Therefore, an application of a carnauba-based car wax to your vehicle will protect it from UV rays, heat, moisture, oxidation, and environmental contamination. And it looks like a million bucks!

The drawback of carnauba waxes, if you can call it a drawback, is that it does not last as long as a synthetic sealant. A carnauba car wax finish will wear off in approximately 6 to 8 weeks. It depends heavily on the climate in which you live and whether or not your vehicle is garaged. Daily commutes in a hot, humid climate mean a shorter life span for your carnauba wax coat. If you enjoy regular waxing, then the life span of a carnauba wax is just one more reason to indulge in your favorite hobby!



In a nutshell, carnauba car wax is the wax of enthusiasts. It appeals to people who want the absolute most stunning show car shine available and are willing to spend a couple of hours every month or so to get it. Most of them will tell you it is time well spent.

Paint Sealants

Paint sealants are kind of the anti-carnauba. They last a lot longer, they are easy to apply, and there’s nothing natural about them. This is surface science at its best.

A paint sealant is made of polymers, which are composed of tens of thousands of synthetic particles that are linked together. When a sealant bonds to your vehicle’s paint, it forms a rigid shell. It is not the warm carnauba that seems to melt into the paint. Paint sealants sit on top of the paint like a transparent chain metal suit. They are glossy and slick, but carnauba lovers will tell you they do not have the warmth and depth of a carnauba.

Paint sealants have gotten progressively more popular as time goes on. Some people really love the hard-as-glass look. In an industry that is driven by technology, it seems appropriate that an engineered paint protector is the new favorite among the younger generation of detailers.

However, the real selling point of a paint sealant is the durability. A premium paint sealant can last 4 to 6 months, sometimes longer. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, for example, can last up to 12 months. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant lasts the more typical 4 to 6 months. By “last”, I mean that water will continue to bead and the paint will remain protected from UV rays and contamination. For people that spend more time driving than detailing, the paint sealant is the way to go.

Paint sealants are extremely easy to apply. They are always in liquid form and they spread easily by hand or with a polisher. This time-saving feature makes paint sealants an attractive choice for those who like instant gratification, and who doesn’t?

As you’ve seen, there are a lot of differences between paint sealants and natural carnauba waxes. Glassy, hard shell or deep, liquid shine? Six months or six weeks? These are the basic questions you have to answer before selecting your paint protection.

However, a growing number of enthusiasts simply refuse to choose. Instead, they coat their vehicles with a layer of sealant for long-lasting protection and then top it with a layer of carnauba for the dazzling shine. Even if you forget to reapply carnauba in 6 weeks, your paint won’t suffer. The Forum Favorite Kit will give a prime example of the shine you can get from a sealant topped with a carnauba. It’s the perfect marriage of beauty and longevity!

Remember, paint protection is one of your vehicle’s basic necessities. No matter what kind of product you choose, Autogeek has got your vehicle covered.

Application Options

After you’ve chosen a wax, you’ve got a couple of application options. You can apply it by hand or with a polisher. Even paste waxes can be applied with a polisher. Here are some tips to give you the best results from your wax.

Hand Application

1. Apply wax or sealant in the shade. If the product dries too quickly or sits on the vehicle too long, it may be difficult to buff off.
2. Always apply wax or sealant to a dry vehicle. Droplets of water on the paint will cause the product to streak and it will be unnecessarily tough to buff off.
3. Thin, thin, thin! Apply the thinnest coat you can. If you want more shine and depth, you’re not going to accomplish it in one thick coat. It just makes the wax or sealant difficult to remove and streaky. Buff one coat off before applying a second extremely thin coat. Check the label to see how long one coat has to cure before applying another (usually 12-18 hours).
4. Poly foam wax applicators are the best for achieving a thin, even coat. They’re absorbent, durable, washable, and reusable. They’re also inexpensive, so don’t be afraid to throw them away when they get really soiled.
5. Buff the haze away with microfiber. A quality microfiber towel, like the Miracle Towel, will buff your paint to a stunning shine as you remove the wax residue. The static-charged, woven fibers grab wax residue so there is less dusting, if any. Microfiber does not shed lint and the tiny, manmade fibers polish the paint while you buff. Rotate your towel frequently to reveal a clean side. Keep an extra Miracle Towel lying around in case the first one becomes caked with wax.
6. If you do get streaks or an uneven shine, it’s easily corrected with a quick detail spray. Mist the surface with Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz or Pinnacle Crystal MistSpray Wax and buff away the problem.

Machine Application

1. Select a Gray Finishing Pad or a Blue Final Finishing Pad to apply wax. This pad is soft and absorbent, but firm enough to withstand the pressure of the machine. It’s perfect for any type of wax, even paste wax.
2. If you are using a paste wax, spread it onto the pad like you’re buttering a piece of bread. You can turn the jar of wax upside down and slide the wax out into a plastic sandwich bag to rub it onto the pad, or you can use a clean putty knife. If you’re using a liquid wax or sealant, dispense three 3” lines of wax around the edge of the pad.
3. If you’re using a liquid wax or sealant, press the polisher to the paint and spread the wax over a panel before turning the machine on. This will lessen the likelihood of splatter.
4. Set your dual action polisher to a maximum speed of 3. Check the label of your particular wax for specific directions, but generally this is the fastest speed you need to apply wax. Spread the wax over the panel until it is evenly covered. Turn off your machine before lifting it off the paint.
5. Buff with microfiber. Again, the Miracle Towel is your best friend. Some products allow you to apply wax to the entire vehicle before buffing, but many do not. If your wax does not, buffing by hand may be most efficient. If your wax can be applied to the entire vehicle before buffing, you might prefer to buff by machine using a microfiber or terry cloth bonnet over a lambswool pad for cushioning. Microfiber doesn’t shed lint like terry cloth can, but the choice is up to you.
6. Some people like to give their vehicle a final hand buffing to remove any remaining wax that the polisher may have missed. Use a quick detail spray to buff out patchy areas.
7. If you want to add another coat of wax, give the first coat time to cure. Also, make sure the wax you are using does not contain cleaners. If it does, subsequent coats will only remove the previous coat. It’s a lot of extra work for nothing. Pinnacle Souverän and P21S Concours Carnauba Wax do not contain cleaners and can therefore be layered as many times as you want. Paint Sealants, such as Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, can also be layered, but allow it to cure 12 hours between coats.

Concours Tip

If you really want to amplify the shine, apply a layer of carnauba over a layer of sealant. The sealant will create a glossy, hard coating while the carnauba wax will enhance the depth and dimension of the paint. A popular combination in the forums is Klasse All-In-One under Souverän.

Glossary of Terms

1. Wax – a protective coating usually made from natural carnauba wax and polymers that provides a deep, reflective shine.

2. Sealant – a completely synthetic blend of polymers that provides long-lasting paint protection and shine.

3. Bonnet – made from terry cloth or microfiber, it fits over a lambswool pad on a dual action polisher for buffing purposes.

4. Dual action polisher – the head moves in two ways; it spins like an orbital and it oscillates. The motion is often described as jiggling. A DA polisher, like the Porter Cable 7424, will greatly improve the appearance of paint imperfections with minimal risk of burning the paint.

How to Use Detailing Clay

Clean With Clay!

If you’re new to detailing clay, you might be thinking, “What can clay possibly have to do with car care?” We’ve heard it all before. The short answer is that auto detailing clay removes from the paint what washing cannot. For the long answer, read on!

Detailing clay is an engineered resin compound used to remove contaminants from the surface of your car’s paint, glass, fiberglass and metal. It can be natural or synthetic, though most manufacturers utilize synthetic clays.

Clay is similar to the stuff you played with as a kid, but the kind used for detailing is usually much more elastic, especially in the case of Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay. The elasticity gives the clay excellent durability as it is rolled, flattened, smushed and stretched over and over again.

Plus detailing clay is designed to stand up to the kind of contaminants that your childhood clay never had to face, i.e. industrial fallout, rail dust and brake dust. These contaminants pierce paint finishes, glass and metal and remain stuck on your vehicle through rain, car washes, and even polishing. The only way to remove these pollutants is – you guessed it – detailing clay.

How Does Clay Work?

Clay glides along the surface of your paint and grabs anything that protrudes from the surface. The particle sticks to the clay and is therefore removed from your vehicle. The surface being clayed should always be wet with clay lubricant to prevent loose debris from scratching the vehicle.

Used properly, clay is completely safe and nonabrasive. Its a much better option than polishing to remove these contaminants because clay doesn’t remove any paint.

There are two different grades of clay currently available to the public. One is a medium grade designed to clean the vehicle once or twice a year. This grade of clay removes wax along with anything else on the vehicle. We’re talking CLEAN. Examples are Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay and DP Universal Detailing Clay.

Your other option is a fine grade that’s relatively new to the industry. It’s called Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and it’s a favorite of enthusiasts who prefer to clay as often as needed to keep that slick finish. This clay removes everything the medium clay removes and it is gentle enough to use monthly or as needed for spot cleaning. If you’re someone who’s meticulous about clean, shiny paint (and who isn’t?!) you’ll love Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay.

All clay requires the use of a clay lubricant to prevent scratches as you gently rub the clay on the vehicle. Check out our Clay Page. There you will find all of the different clays and their coordinated lubricants.

What Does Clay Remove?

Your vehicle is under constant assault from airborne pollutants. Brake dust, industrial fallout, acid rain deposits and rail dust all can adhere to your vehicle. These contaminants often contain metal particulates, which accounts for the ease with which they penetrate the clear coat to attack the paint below. These contaminants then oxidize, and they allow rust to spread beneath the clear coat. Tiny orange spots today, total paint system failure tomorrow! Detailing clay removes these contaminants in order to keep the paint healthy and vibrant.

Clay also removes stubborn sap, tar, and bug splatter. Detailing clay works wonder on glass as well. Try some the next time you’re washing your windows. You’ll be amazed at the results!

Do You Need To Clay?

Chances are, the answer is yes. The surface of your vehicle faces assaults from the environment every time it’s out in the weather. Each road trip brings new insults from roadway debris, exhaust films, and airborne pollution. They will splash, mar, and embed themselves in that beautiful paint job you’ve labored over. Vehicles can accumulate these contaminants any time, any place – even at the dealership.

There’s a simple test that will indicate whether or not you need to clay. Wash and dry your vehicle, put a plastic sandwich bag over your hand and lightly rub your fingertips over the paint. If it feels gritty or rough, your paint is contaminated.

Use a high quality clay bar, like Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay or Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay, and a clay lubricant to clean your paint before applying wax or polish.

Waxes and paint sealants will adhere better to clean paint and the shine will be more uniform and vibrant. Sounds like a win-win situation!

To Use Clay:

Clay is available in 2 to 8 oz. bars. Two ounces is enough to do three or four vehicles. On average, a vehicle will need to be clayed twice a year. At this rate, one 2 oz. clay bar will last you 18 months to 2 years if used on the same vehicle. If you buy clay in an 8 oz. bar, like DP Universal Detailing Clay, cut it into quarters and keep the unused portions moistened with lubricant in the storage case. Other brands, like Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay, come in a 4 oz. bar.

NOTE: to optimize both the quality of your claying and the clays useful life avoid soap and water as a lubricant. They will prematurely deteriorate today’s clay compounds. Use only clay lubricants. A good clay kit, like the The Wolfgang Polishin’ Pal Clay Kit, contain both clay and it’s corresponding lubricant.

Follow these steps:

1. Wash and dry your vehicle.
2. Spray a small area with clay lubricant, no bigger than 2 square feet.
3. Gently rub the clay bar back and forth across the wet area. It will grab at first. This means that it is pulling contaminants out of the paint. When it glides
   freely, the paint is clean.
4. Wipe the area with a or microfiber towel and use the clay lubricant to remove any clay residue. Rub your fingers across the paint now; it should be as smooth as glass. If it’s not, repeat the process. Reshape the clay bar as needed to expose a clean surface. Keep the clay well-lubricated.
5. Continue these steps until you’ve clayed the entire vehicle. Clay does a marvelous job on glass and chrome, too.
6. Store the clay bar in its original case if possible, or in an airtight plastic bag. Spray it with lubricant to keep it moist. Do not allow the clay to freeze and do not store it in temperatures above 200° F.
7. Always follow claying with a wax or sealant. Clay will removing existing wax and may leave tiny holes where contaminants have been removed. They must be sealed in order to protect the paint from corrosion.
   
   Note: Clay does not remove oxidized paint or fill in blemishes. If your paint is mildly oxidized, clean the paint with clay and then use a polish to remove the oxidized paint. If the oxidation is severe, polish first because the oxidized paint may flake off as you clay and ruin the clay bar. (See our polish how-to.)
   
   Then use a pre-wax cleaner, like Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, to fill in minor swirls and scratches prior to waxing. If your paint is in good condition, proceed to waxing.

Clean automotive glass is possible with the right products and techniques!

Cleaning automotive glass is tricky, but well worth doing. Clean, clear glass looks beautiful next to clean, waxed paint. Crystal clear glass will give you optimum visibility when driving. That’s a significant life-safety factor we ignore at our peril. Just a few extra minutes detailing your windows will add a sparkling touch to your vehicle’s finish and just might save your life!



The Facts About Glass Cleaners

Nearly all glass cleaners contain ammonia, which is a great grease cutter but has some significant disadvantages.

• It can release prodigious amounts of fumes that should not be inhaled especially in enclosed areas, like the inside of your vehicle.
• Chemically it acts to dry out plastic, rubber, vinyl, and leather.
• Most significantly, in sunnier climates, car owners often customize with additional non-factory tinting. Ammonia based cleaners cannot be used on tinted windows. If your current cleaner does not state “ammonia-free” or “safe for tinted windows” you should find another cleaner.

NOTE: AVOID HOUSEHOLD GLASS CLEANERS, which almost all contain ammonia. A few examples of tint-safe glass cleaners are; Stoner Invisible Glass, DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner, and Meguiar’s NXT Generation Glass Cleaner.

A Tip for Tinted Windows: Use DP Plex-All to polish and protect the window tint. Apply it only to the inside of the glass where tint is visible. It will seal the tint material (Mylar) and keep it clean. DP Plex-All is non-static, non-streaking, and it dries crystal clear.

Some people prefer to use plain water to clean their windows. While this is a very safe method, water is not enough of a solvent to cut the protein base of stubborn spots, like bug remains. However, a glass-cleaning microfiber towel , like the Cobra Waffle Weave Microfiber Glass Towel, will provide a gentle scrubbing action to help remove contamination. Dampen this towel lightly and clean the glass. Then, flip the towel to a dry side and buff to remove every last streak. </B>High quality microfiber is micro-engineered to eliminate lint and is extraordinarily absorbent to prevent streaking.

One hand tool that’s well worth a try is Glass Master Pro-Glass and Surface Cleaner. This long-armed glass scrubber can help you your SUV windshield and those hard to get at top of the cab windows or your sunroof.

Clean By Numbers

1. Detail your vehicle. Glass should be the last thing you do to avoid re-contaminating it during the detailing process.
2. Work out of the sun on dry windows. The sun can cause glass cleaner to evaporate too quickly and leave residues.
3. Spend some extra time on your windshield because you look though it more than the rest of the windows. Lightly dampen your microfiber towel with your cleaner of choice. We highly recommend DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner for its non-streaking, film-zapping performance. Wipe up and down and then side to side using long strokes. Flip the towel to a dry side to remove any remaining wetness from the windshield. Do the same on the back window.
4. Be sure to roll down your windows about half way so you can clean the top edges of the glass.
5. Whether you clean all of your inside or outside glass first, or if you favor the window-by-window approach, that is your preference.
6. You can’t always get it right the first time. It may take a mist of glass cleaner to remove stubborn film and then another cleaning with plain water to remove any streaks created by the film. It all depends on exactly what is on your glass. Don’t be afraid to use more than one cleaner on the same window, if that’s what it takes.
7. When you clean the inside of the back window, it may be helpful to use the backside of your hand to hold the towel against the lower edge of the glass. This technique will allow you to reach the bottom of the glass with greater ease. This is the perfect application of the Glass Master Pro Glass and Surface Cleaner. It can reach any spot on your windows and take it OUT!

Water Spot Eliminators

Water spots are mineral deposits that have etched their way into the paint and they can be very tough to remove. When a drop of water evaporates, all the minerals contained in that water remain on the paint. Etching is a gradual process, but those little spots will accumulate before you know it. The best way to avoid them is to dry your vehicle each and every time it gets wet. If that sounds too ambitious, at least dry it after washing and after a rain. If it’s already too late, here are some tips for removing those cloudy spots.

Glass can take a polish just like paint. A quality glass polish like DP High Performance Glass Restorer will remove water spots and cloudiness to restore perfect clarity to your windows. You can apply it by hand or with a polisher, but set your machine on a low speed (1000-1200 RPM on a rotary or 5000-6000 OPM on a dual action) and use a polishing pad. Do not apply pressure; the pad will do the work for you. When the polish starts to dry, stop polishing and buff the residue away with a microfiber towel.

Another option is Diamondite Spray Clay. This is a clay foam that removes embedded contaminants from glass, as well as mineral deposits, using an included sponge. Spray Clay is part of the Diamondite Glass Cleaning System, which also includes Diamondite Glass Cleaner and Diamondite Shield. Spray Clay will not remove etching, but it will correct spots that are still on the surface.

Diamondite Shield will keep your glass clean and provide some protection against future water spots. It seals the glass and causes water to bead. Think of it as a wax for your glass. It improves the performance of wipers and provides a huge improvement in visibility when it rains.

Don’t Forget the Wipers!

Part of keeping your glass clean is keeping your wipers in working order. The rubber strip can dry out and crack so that it doesn’t hug the glass properly. Therefore, it’s inefficient at clearing water off the windshield. If you maintain your wipers, you won’t discover they’re dried out when you need them most, like in a rain storm.

Wiper blades are inexpensive enough to replace, but you will get more life out of each set if you treat them with a rubber protectant made for wipers. 303 Wiper Treatment Wipes are pre-soaked wipes that keep the rubber soft and supple so the wipers hug the glass properly. Treated wipers will not skip or chatter, and they will remove water and surface debris more effectively. 303 Wipes also keep your wiper blades from freezing so they can better clear snow and ice from your windshield. Check your wipers periodically to be sure they are working well and treat them immediately if they appear to be dried out.

Another way to keep your windshield clean is washer fluid additives. Typical washer fluids available at your local auto store are highly diluted and remove little more than dust. Several companies have formulated concentrated additives that give your regular washer fluid a much-needed boost. P21S Windshield Wash Booster is a great product. It supercharges your generic washer fluid specifically to cut through stubborn films and bug debris. It can be added both to antifreeze washer fluids, as well as plain water. Overspray will have no impact on paint or trim.

Wurth Windshield Wash Additive serves the same purpose, but it has antifreeze protection already added to the formula. It will provide frost protection down to -22°F. This product is perfect for cold, snow-prone climates.

Remember, if you use washer additives and a glass sealant, your windows will not require strenuous cleaning each time you detail your vehicle. A little preventative maintenance will take the aggravation out of window cleaning.

How to Correctly Detail Wheels & Tires

Cleaning your wheels and tires regularly is not just an appearance issue – it’s preventative maintenance!

If you allow brake dust to sit on your wheels for a prolonged period of time, it can eat into the coating (if there is one) and pit the metal. Brake dust is made of an adhesive and carbon fibers that come off the brake pad and tiny metal shavings from the rotor. The intense heat and friction generated by the wheels makes this mixture highly corrosive. Because you probably drive every day, more brake dust is constantly being made. Frequent cleaning is the only way to keep your wheels safe. A good start is the Pinnacle Wheel and Tire Kit! Check out our Tire & Wheel Care Page for more excellent tire and wheel products.

Start at the bottom

1. When you wash your vehicle, clean the wheels and tires first. This will prevent overspray or grime from splashing onto already-clean panels. If you like to clean your wheels and tires with soap and water, use a separate wash and rinse bucket and soft bristle brush.
2. Choose a cleaner that is appropriate for the type of wheels you have. Roughcast aluminum and chrome can withstand stronger cleaners than coated, painted, or anodized wheels. The cleaner will say what it is suited for on the label. For example, Mother’s All Purpose Wheel Mist can be used on any type of wheel, but their Chrome/Wire Wheel Cleaneris not safe for coated wheels. If you are not sure what kind of wheels you have, use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels.
   
   I prefer to use a cleaner that works on the tires, too. Wolfgang Gel Wheel Cleaner is a gel formula that clings to both the tire and the wheel surface to penetrate below the surface. It loosens brake dust that has crept into tiny holes in the metal and into the pores of the rubber. A little agitation with a brush will allow Wolfgang to work even better.
   
   You’d be surprised how many tire and wheel brushes are out there. Basically, you want to look for a brush with feathered bristles for the wheels. This will prevent scratching. OXO’s Ergonomic Wheel Brush is a great option. If your wheels are badly soiled, the New England Wheel Brushe has stiffer bristles so you can loosen baked-on grime from between spokes. For tires, OXO also makes an Ergonomic Tire Brush. Tires require a stiffer brush to really scrub the rubber. Don’t be afraid to put a little elbow grease into it, particularly if your tires have layers of old dressings on them. These layers will turn brown and make your tires look worn out if you don’t scrub them off.
3. Always clean your tires and wheels one set at a time to prevent the cleaner from drying. Wash and then rinse with a strong jet of water before moving to the next tire.
4. Don’t forget to dry your wheels! Use a Cobra Microfiber Detailing Towel or a terry cloth towel, but not one that you plan to use on any other part of your vehicle. Once a towel is used on the tires or wheels, it should always be used for tires and wheels. Drying prevents water spots and helps you remove every last bit of the brake dust.

Wax your wheels!

Once your wheels are clean and dry, apply a quality wheel protectant like DP Wheel Glaze or Wheel Wax to seal the wheel surface. These products work just like car wax. Apply them with an applicator pad and then buff the wheel. They keep your wheels looking shiny, and they prevent brake dust adhesion. Your wheels look cleaner longer. You have to reapply these products weekly, but it’s better than scrubbing your wheels every two days. The good news is, if you use a wheel wax as recommended, water is the only thing you need to clean your wheels between waxings.

Dress for Success

Choose your tire dressing carefully. Old formulas contain silicone, which produces a glossy shine but it turns brown over time. These dressings deplete the rubber’s own protectants faster, causing it to age prematurely. Newer formulas, like Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel or Optimum Tire Shine,are water-based and less shiny. They create the look of new tires with a semi-gloss sheen that doesn’t turn brown. Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel also nourishes the rubber to recreate the look of new tires. You can often layer water-based dressings to get a glossier shine. Follow the directions on the label carefully. Always apply thin coats and allow drying time before you drive your vehicle. Even the best dressing will sling off if it’s on too thick or it doesn’t have time to dry.

Dressings provide UV protection and prevent drying, cracking and fading. With a little TLC, your vehicle’s wheels and tires will look as sharp as the rest of your ride!

Engine Detailing

Next to your paint, your engine is one of the most expensive parts of your car. It may even be the reason you bought the car to begin with. You just had to have that big block muscle car or that turbo charged power wagon. You spend thousands of dollars over the course of your vehicle’s life servicing the fluids, maintaining the paint and interior, replacing the tires, and everything else involved with car ownership. After years of ownership and tens of thousands of miles behind the wheel, what does your engine look like now?

Many people don’t detail their engines simply because they don’t understand the process of how to do it. Some of your concerns might be that you don’t know what you can get wet and what you can’t. You might be afraid of breaking something or staining something with a cleaning product. If your engine was going to melt if it got wet, then the bottom of the engine bay would be sealed and water would never be able to get into it. The truth is that your engine is a lot more resilient than you give it credit for. You can wash and detail your engine without much fear of ruining anything. You just have to remember that you are detailing and not putting out a fire. Don’t just soak the engine with degreaser and the break out the hose on high pressure. Engine detailing takes a little finesse to go a good job.

1. First you should remember that you never detail a hot engine. The best time to detail your engine is in the morning when it has been sitting all night. If you throw cold water on a hot engine then you run a much higher risk of causing damage. You definitely want to make sure the engine is cool before you start work. Some detailers recommend warming the engine to loosen build-up but it should only be slightly warm. If its too warm, the degreaser will dry and spot engine surface.
2. Before you begin detailing, cover the alternator, any exposed filters, and the engine's air intake. Those are the areas that you really don’t want water or degreaser pooling in. Cover your exposed air filter with a bag, then be sure to remove the bag before you start your engine. You might also want to consider any other areas of the engine that might not be water friendly. If you have done any custom work then you may have electrical connections or gauges that you want to cover. Just think about what you wouldn’t necessarily want to get too wet. You can always hand clean those areas after you get the rest of the dirt out. Remember: this is engine detailing and not fire fighting. Use only as much water and cleaners as needed to get the job done.
3. Start by degreasing the perimeter of the engine bay. DP Cleanse-All Exterior Surface Cleaner is an intense degreaser that works wonders on greasy engine bays. The painted surfaces are fine to use degreaser on. Make sure you get the fluid containers and hoses degreased as well. Those are areas that usually get extra dirty. Spray down the firewall at the back of the engine bay and be sure to get as far down as you can. Degreaser won’t do the whole job for you, but it will certainly make things easier.
   
   To get the degreaser off you simply need to rinse it with a slow stream of water. You can use your thumb over the end of the hose to create a little pressure, but for the most part the degreaser will do the work and get the dirt off. Anything that doesn’t come off can just be wiped down. Again, don’t expect engine detailing to come in a bottle or a can. You usually have to wipe it down by hand in order to get the engine really looking good.
4. After you have rinsed what you can, the rest needs to be done by hand. It is best if you have a wash mitt that is specially designated for engine detailing. You don’t want to use the same one for the engine that you would use for the rest of the car in order to prevent cross-contamination. For crevices and any areas that you can’t reach by hand, the EZ-Detail Brush will come in handy. This flexible brush is covered in soft, nylon nylex bristles that are chemical resistant. The brush is 18 inches long overall and the bristles will flatten against the center rod to squeeze into tight places.
   
   Wash the perimeter of the engine and make sure that all the dirt is gone. You can also begin washing toward the middle of the engine where you may not have sprayed any degreaser. Some of the fluid containers and caps may need a little extra elbow grease, so make sure you get those areas as well.
   
   Some areas may require you to use detailing brushes to get the grime off. Always use soft bristled brushes and never use brass or stainless steel ones. Those will scratch plastic and paint and really take away from the look of your engine.
   
   You may need to mix some soapy water in a spray bottle to assist in your detailing. That helps get the areas that need to be hand detailed. You can also use a good quick cleaning product, like DP Waterless Wash. Just have plenty of shop towels handy to wipe down the areas when you are finished. You may also want to designate a few microfiber towels for engine detailing. The 6 Pack of the Cobra Mango Breeze Microfiber Towels is a great value, or you can upgrade your buffing towels to the Cobra Super Plush Deluxe Towel or the Indigo Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths and use your old towels for engine duty.
5. The engine needs to be dried before proceeding with wax or protectants. Use a Metro Vac N' Blo if you have one at your disposal. This blower will get water out of places you can't reach with a towel. If you don't have a Vac N' Blo, use a can of compressed air to blow water out of crevices. Stoner E-Z Gust will work just fine.
6. After you have cleaned all the dirt off, it is time to shine it up. You can actually wax the paint if you want to, but you may want to use a high quality sealant instead. The engine bay gets way too hot for a carnauba-based wax to last very long. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is a great product to use on the painted surfaces under the hood. Collinite Insulator Wax #845 is literally made for hot areas so you’ll have no problem with durability from this product.
7. To shine up the plastics and hoses you can use a quality rubber/vinyl protectant. Wipe down the hoses and all plastic surfaces to make sure they are protected against heat and stains from grease or dirt. 303 Aerospace Protectant will provide outstanding protection with a subtle matte finish. If you plan on showing off your engine compartment, use something with a little sheen like Pinnacle Vinyl Rubber Protectant.

Your engine will look so much better if you take a few minutes and clean it up. A 10 year old vehicle doesn’t have to have an engine that looks 10 years old. Once you get the engine clean once, maintaining it with regular wipe-downs is much easier. The tools and products listed here will help you keep your engine bay looking as polished as the rest of your vehicle.

Other people may admire the outside your vehicle, but you see the inside every time you drive. Depending on how you use your vehicle, the interior may need even more TLC than the paint! This guide will take you through the basics of interior care. After all, it’s what’s on the inside that counts!

The interior of your car is a relatively small space. Small messes have a huge impact! Keep your interior looking great with weekly quick-cleanings. A little time spent cleaning each weekend will keep your monthly super clean-up from taking up your whole Saturday!



Weekly Cleaning Regimen

1. Using a Cobra Detailing Cloth (microfiber towel) wipe down all solid surfaces. This microfiber cloth will catch the accumulated dust and minor spills that have occurred since the last detailing.
2. Unless your vehicle doubles as a taxi for kids and pets, you can probably cut down vacuuming to a monthly chore. For the occasional crumbs and dirt, use the OXO Whisk Broom and Dust Pan. Its easy to use and easy to store in your glove compartment. Remove pet hair in seconds with Automotive K9 Upholstery and Carpet Mitt.
3. Floor mats probably bear the brunt of abuse during the week. Shake them out if they’re not too bad. If you have a Metro Stainless Steel Hand Vac at your disposal, go ahead a give them a quick vacuuming. This little machine isn’t cumbersome to use and it has great suction for a hand vac.

Unless you made a big mess that week, this is all you need to do on a weekly basis.

Monthly Cleaning Regime

Give your interior a thorough cleaning about once a month. If you get into a habit, no spot or stain will go unnoticed.

1. If you own the Metro Vac ‘N Blo you’ll find the clean-up a breeze. Suddenly it will be easy to get into all those tight spots where only dirt and pocket change go.
2. Break out your Wolfgang Spot Eliminator and make carpet and upholstery stains vanish. Use our recommended Mat and Carpet Scrub Brush to work the cleaner into the spot and blot it away with a clean towel. Once the spot is dry, you can re-vacuum the treated area to fluff the carpet pile again.
3. Wipe down all vinyl, plastic and rubber surfaces with a damp Cobra Microfiber Detailing Cloth. You can use either plain water or a cleaner, like DP Total Interior Cleaner. Many rubber and vinyl protectants have some cleaning ability so, unless you have major dressing build-up or stains, you can go straight to the DP Interior Surface Protectant.
   
   Warning! Avoid silicone-based protectants. Silicone leaves an oily residue and it attracts dust. Over time, it can turn your dashboard yellow. Stick to water-based protectants and you’ll never have to worry about a greasy, yellow interior.
4. Next clean the interior glass using a non-ammonia glass cleaner, like DP Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner or Stoner Invisible Glass Pump Spray. Both of these cleaners are safe on tinted windows. Use the Cobra Waffle Weave Microfiber Glass Towel to wipe the glass clean with no streaks or lint.
5. You will need the Mini Two-Way Detailing Brush to get inside the vents and in the seams where otherwise only dust, lint and the stray coins will travel. These areas are often overlooked and difficult to clean, but it makes a big difference in the overall appearance of your vehicle’s interior.
6. Vinyl seats will respond best to Pinnacle Leather and Vinyl Cleaner for spills and dust. It also works superbly on leather. UV exposure has disastrous effects on both leather and vinyl so we have found the best product on the market today in UV protection is “ozone safe” 303 Aerospace Protectant. Coat your vinyl seats with 303 for lasting protection.

Leather Care

If Leather is to retain its beauty, it must be cared for, cleaned and conditioned. It’s much easier to spend a little time protecting and conditioning your fine Leather upholstery than spending the energy and money to salvage it. Keeping your Leather in good condition begins with a thorough daily wipe down with your favorite one-step cleaner. Our daily “one-step” starts with Pinnacle Leather Cleaner/Conditioner on a damp Cobra Microfiber Towel.

Have seen Leather that has been ignored and mistreated? What remains is dried, prematurely aged, and cracked leather. This fragile leather, bombarded with UV radiation, cooked in infrared, and discolored with body oils, and finally rough sanded by ground-in dirt, is the result. Without proper care and conditioning your Leather will age rapidly, losing its luster and flexibility. This process is rapidly accelerated in warmer climates.

WHAT IS PROPER LEATHER CARE? Leather surfaces, are just like beautiful delicate skin. Leather must be carefully cleansed before it can be properly conditioned. The discriminating connoisseur always selects Pinnacle Leather and Vinyl Cleaner for the last word in quality Leather Care.

THE TWO-STEP SOLUTION! Pinnacle Leather and Vinyl Cleaner , a pure cleaner, free of petroleum solvents, silicone oils or gloss agents, penetrates deep into every pore. Especially when applied with the gentle agitating action of a Cobra Microfiber Application Pad, or a Carpet and Upholstery Scrub Brush. Agitation, not scrubbing that is the key. This agitation opens pores and allows moisture to penetrate deep, cleansing, lubricating and moisturizing. WARNING! Often inexpensive brands of leather cleaners and gloss agents contain petroleum distillates, silicon or silicon oils which cling to the surface and then are wiped onto clothing. Worse, they leave a greasy inferior finish. First, you must apply a quality Leather Cleaner like Pinnacle Leather & Vinyl Cleaner. Then after a thorough cleansing, your Leather is ready for step two, application of a quality conditioner like market leaders, Wolfgang Leather Care Conditioner or Pinnacle Leather Conditioner. These conditioners are calibrated to nourish and moisturize. They are engineered at a molecular level, to absorb deep into the cell fibers. Allowing these fibers to retain their resilience, and thereby inhibit premature aging. Proper conditioning allows fibers to retain flexibility. This prevents the dryness that leads to brittle cracked surfaces.

Many popular conditioners like Lexol Spray Leather Conditioner and the product recommended especially for the Bentley, Jaguar and Rolls lines, Connolly Hide Care Conditioner are pH balanced, have stain repellants, and waterproofing agents to protect your beautiful interior from accidents. The Wolfgang Leather Care Cockpit Kit contains all the tools you’ll need, AND it is pH balanced. If you only want the best for both Leather and Vinyl, there is simply no better comprehensive choice for ”state of the art” cleaners, conditioners and applicators than our specially packaged, Pinnacle Concours Interior Kit. Pinnacle Leather Cleaner/Conditioner</B> on a damp Cobra Microfiber Towel.

In recent years, black plastic trim has become popular among auto manufacturers – think of the Nissan X Terra, the Hummer H2, and the Jeep Wrangler. All these vehicles have two things in common: #1 they have black molding either over the wheels or on the front, or both; #2 they’re rugged, off-roading vehicles that incur more abuse than your average sedan. For these two reasons, you have to apply protectant to these pieces. If you don’t, they’ll turn gray faster than you can say “low resale value”.

This tutorial will make some suggestions on how best to keep your dark trim and moldings looking like new.

Regular Maintenance

Wash. Wash the trim and moldings each time you wash your vehicle. On textured pieces, you may want to use a Pinnacle Detailing Brush found in the Pinnacle Detailing Brush, . For larger pieces of trim, you might find it easier to use the OXO Car Wash Brush. A brush will allow you to pull contaminants out of the pores of the material. These contaminants may be contributing to the discoloration of the rubber or plastic. Avoid using stiff bristle brushes on smooth black plastic; it will scratch.

Undress. If you already have a dressing on the trim and molding, clean it off periodically. Layering dressings will eventually result in discoloration because the outermost layers are not curing to the rubber; they are just sitting on top of old layers. Take a moment to clean off old dressings at least every two months using DP Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner. Spray your microfiber towel. and wipe down the trim pieces to avoid overspray.

Protect. Once your vehicle is clean and dried, you need to protect the trim pieces with a quality rubber, vinyl, and plastic protectant. This will help prevent future UV degradation, which is the primary cause of fading. Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Protectant and 303 Aerospace Protectant are both exceptional products. They both provide excellent UV protection with a non-greasy, satin finish. Use a microfiber applicator pad to spread the protectant over the surface. It will provide an even coat without dripping or running. I apply protectant to my vehicles once a month because the sun is intense in Florida, but once every two months is probably sufficient in most climates.

When applying protectant, don’t skip the wiper cowl (the plastic piece at the bottom of the windshield), the mirrors (if applicable), and window and door moldings. Use a detailing swab to apply protectant in tight spaces. Open your doors and apply protectant to the rubber gaskets, too. If they become dry or brittle, they will not effectively keep out air and road noise. Vinylex Quick Wipes by Lexol are a convenient way to protect and preserve rubber gaskets. Just use a pre-moistened wipe to apply a layer of patented protection.

Restoration

If your black trim and molding have already faded, there are options to restore them. Forever Black is a black dye for coarse rubber and plastic pieces. The dye contains UV protectants to prevent future fading and its polymer formula ensures lasting color. Forever Black is a permanent dye so use care when applying it. In fact, test it out on an inconspicuous area before applying to all the trim. Keep in mind that it will not be able to absorb evenly into smooth plastic.

The Forever Black Bumper & Trim Dye Kit comes with a cleaner and a bottle of dye. The dye has a sponge-tip right on the bottle for easy application. Turn the bottle upside down and press it against something to get the dye flowing. Spread a thin, even coat over the surface and allow it to dry for 20 minutes. No buffing is required. It may take a couple of coats to get the desired shade of black.

If your trim isn’t quite black or you have smooth plastic surfaces, another option is Black Again.This product is a shiny dressing that significantly darkens the color of the plastic or rubber. The trim will look like its wet. The gloss can be toned down by allowing the dressing to penetrate for a few minutes and then wiping it with a microfiber towel. Terry cloth towels will leave lint so it’s best to stick with microfiber for this job.

Don’t Forget the License Plate Frame

If you have a black plastic license plate frame, it will benefit from a coat of protectant, too. Use a detailing swab or the corner of your microfiber applicator to apply a thin coat. For frames that contain a clear plastic lens, clean and protect it with DP Plex-All™ to prevent yellowing.