Toyota Tundra Forum

I have a 2000 tundra with a 2.5 year old battery. I went outta town for 8 days and when I came back my battery was dead. I jumpstarted it and drove it around for awhile to recharge it. i then left it for 2 days and when I went to start it yesterday all it did was click rapidly. The battery guage registered at halfway but it doesn't even turn over. What do you think? Alternator? Starter?

Sounds to me like a shorted cell(s) in the battery if no one is touching the truck during the periods you were gone.

__________________

2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller

Get the battery checked first. Charge it up and take it to any place that sells batteries and they can do a load test on it.

__________________

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

An electrical clicking when trying to crank usually means that you have poor contact with the battery. I have noticed that the terminals in the Tundra do corrode pretty easy. I have started spraying them with that corrosion spray to keep it down. Item Details, look for: BTP4.

Have a look at your terminals and clean both sides and you may find that it will start. Also poor contact will cause your charging system not to charge the battery properly so this may have cause your original problem.

__________________
2007 Slate Metallic
5.7L (Do they make another engine?)
Double Cab SR5
TRD Off-Road 4X4



Black Billet Grille, TundraTruckz Stubbie Antenna, Armourthane Liner, Leer Canopy, BF Goodrich A/T 285/65-18, Truxx Levelling Kit, Ride-Rite Rear Airbags.

In my experience, pouring Coca-cola onto the terminals and then spraying them lightly with liquid white grease (such as this: Gunk(R) / Radiator Specialty L616 10.25oz. Liquid Wrench White Lithium Grease Spray, but available in most any auto parts house) also works well to prevent corrosion.

I think the battery terminal stuff from Gunk is mainly lithium grease. I used to use baking soda mixed with water to clean the terminals which worked OK but since it is water it kind of washes away. The Gunk Battery terminal cleaner http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/BTC4.pdf is just another baking soda solution but it comes out as a foam so it sticks to the terminal to neutralize the acid, follow it up with the battery terminal protector it does a good job. http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/BTP4.pdf

I've always used baking soda and water. The dealer put a pad and some red stuff on the terminals. I guess it's a lithium grease. Kinda annoying when you have to mess with the terminals soon after.

believe it or not you can actually glue or tape a penny to the top of your battery between the two terminals and this will keep corrosion off your terminals because the corrosion attacks the penny first. just have to change it every now and then.

There would have to be an electrical connection to the penny for that to work.