Toyota Tundra Forum

The guy has one heck of a business. I beleive it was the same price in 1989 when I had him align a hardbody after turning the frontend up. I didn't ask my dealer, but their mailer speacial was 75 or 80 a few months ago. The wife says she thinks it rides better with the spacers, I think she needs to drive her own. But thats why I shouldn't think, just insert foot,lol.

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If you consider cars sacred objects, and find yourself treating them with adoring reverence, while others consider your enthusiasm to be fanatically extreme, then you are a certified car nut….like me !!!!


2007 Tundra DC 5.7 4X4 with very fast Radiant Red slapped on.
Custom painted engine cover(Godzilla)
One set chrome mannly truck nutz.
Putco chrome tow mirror covers and tail gate handle.
Replaced door handles with chrome.
Raptor oval nerf bars.
18X9 Ultra Goliaith wheels +25 offset, chrome.
Truxx 3/1 Level, 1in Differential Drop.
35X12.50-18 Nitto Mudd grapplers. Inflatted 35.04 H and 12.20 W.
15% tint fronts.
American Aluminum low profile tool box, carpeted.
WetOkle Seat Covers.
Cherry Bomb Single Split Dual Exhaust.

I got the front part of the truxxx kit in. I had two main problems with it. Mainly as a result of the poor instructions.

1. I couldn't compress things enough to reconnect the lower ball joint. I tried and tried with no luck. I watched the THQ video over and over but it was to dark to see what he put the ratchet strap on. I finally figured out that what we are trying to do is pull down the upper control arm not pull up the ball joint, after I figured that out it was pretty easy but led to problem #2

2. While trying to figure out how to get the LCA back together I thought well maybe if I hook up the sway bar again, so I tried to do that. WRONG! You can kind of get it started when not on the ground but it won't go back in properly like that. So in my zealous attempt I think I broke loose the welded nut on the passenger side in the rear of the bracket! I'm not sure what can be done with this problem since it is all closed in!!! When I take it in for the alignment I will ask them to have a look at it hopefully they can weld it back in somehow for $50 or something. So the alignment place charged $60 for the alignment (NAPA Autopro) That was a pretty good deal, Kal-tire wanted $104! Anyways I got them to look at the broken nut problem. Called me to ask if they could drill a hole into the frame to get at the nut. I was a little leery so I called the local stealer and he said it shouldn't be a problem. Especially since the hole would be forward of the suspension and the engine. Anyways I called them back and said to do it. Charged me .7 hrs and $8.12 for a new bolt & nut. They painted every thing all up drilled about a 1" hole. I think I will get a grommet to stick in there to keep the crud from filling it all in. This was my fault but I still think with better instructions from Truxxx it wouldn't have happened.

I think I will have another look at the control arm positions too because when I turned it around the wheel was pulling pretty hard to the left. I am assuming that this is an alignment issue but I am a bit concerned about driving to the shop. My dad always used to tell me if you drove very far after doing things to the front end like tie rod ends you could wipe out your tires pretty quick and really mess things up.

One other thing. What about torque? The ball joint spec is 200N-m! My 1/2" torque wrench only goes up to 80N-m. I just used my impact on setting four for most stuff.

PS Attempting this without an air ratchet and an impact would be awful. For a simple example 200N-m is equivalent to applying 20kgf (force of 20kg at sea level) to a 1m long breaker bar. if your normal torque wrench is 1/3m that means 60kgf, maybe more to get the bolts out! That would be tough on the arms!!!

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2007 Slate Metallic
5.7L (Do they make another engine?)
Double Cab SR5
TRD Off-Road 4X4



Black Billet Grille, TundraTruckz Stubbie Antenna, Armourthane Liner, Leer Canopy, BF Goodrich A/T 285/65-18, Truxx Levelling Kit, Ride-Rite Rear Airbags.

Tox its been a few weeks since the truxx kit was installed. Today I roll under the passenger side find grease slung around. It looks like its coming from where the clamp comes together. Its as though the boot and clamp are allowing a small amount of the grease to sling out. Got under and wiped it all down and it seems to be comming from where the clamp wa crimped. The outter edge of the clamp. After comparing the two side they look to be pushed up to the exact place they should be, but I'll have to try a bit harder tommorrow to get exact stop.

I got the dealer to put a new clamp on mine, but the grease kept allowing the entire boot to slide right up the axle to the narrow part and then come loose. The dealer finally just put on a screw clamp and said it would be fine.

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Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved.

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, 55w reverse lights, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, colormatched exterior parts (de-chromed truck), Weathertech floor mats, eDead sound proofing, CDT Audio speakers, Custom made speaker brackets, LED foot well lights, PRG/Deaver 3 leaf mini-pack
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

I may do that myself. I don't really want to take the spacers out. Its like a pin spot on the outter edge of the clamp. I'll check the parts store tommorrow. Thanks Toxelene.

The large hose clamp works out well, it hasn't moved in a couple days. Now I have another problem. The upper cv boot has a needle point hole in it, like on top of the third rib and directly on top of it.

Anyone tired patching this type of leak for a short period. Right now I have 3m weatherstriping adhesive setting on it, the yellow stuff. I ruffed the edges to see if it will hold temporaily. If it dosen't, any other thoughts.

The only reason I ask is I'll have no time to replace the boot until midweek. By the way I found it had a piece of like baling wire stuck in it which caused this to ocurr. Need to stay away from the hay feild barns I geuss.

Any help is greatly appreitiated.

Rubber cement should hold if it's just a small hole. Rough it up a little around the hole and put some on. If the hole is a little bigger, you might try a bicycle tire patch. It might be a little too thick and stiff to use. A piece of old inner tube and rubber cement should work. Rough both up with a file and glue them together. If you give it time to dry, should seal it up pretty good.

Thanks Tox. Its a pencil lead size hole, right on top of the middle ridge of the boot. Thanks for the info. Seems I'm having a bit of bad luck lately. Well the suns out, I'm awake to see it, hell its going to be a great day.

I found a dime size patch and stuck it. I went everywhere today looking for a thin patch and couldn't find it when, the brain kicked in. Bicycle tube,thought that was mentioned to me somewhere, lol. Very thin patch. Drove 50 miles and its sealed. Thank you very much Toxster!

I've replaced the boots but never patched'em. Atleast this will get me by until I can replace it. Rocket science.

Tox heres what I found. So far so good. May be something to keep in the truck, along with alchol wipes. It comes with a scrubber file too.