Toyota Tundra Forum

First, let me say that the Truxxx instructions that come with the the kit absolutely suck. Second, let me reiterate how much the instructions that Truxx sent with the kit absolutely suck. Third, the product is pretty good and definitely made the truck look and feel taller both in the front and the rear, even though it was only a 3" front and 1" rear spacer leveling kit. Though, it doesn't show up as well in the profile pictures. I tried to take the pictures around the same time of day, but it was cloudy one of the days.

Before:


After:


Edit: The following pictures were my way of doing the install without a good set of directions. Here is a much easier way to do the install. Watch the video in the following article: Truxxx Tundra 3" Lift Kit Review | tundraheadquarters.com


I took some pictures and hopefully this will help you with your install. These should work for most lifts up to 3 inches.

Tools you will want to have:
(I think these are the right socket sizes)
10mm socket
12mm socket and 12 mm crescent wrench
14mm socket
19mm socket
22mm socket
socket wrench
1/2" socket angle attachment
adjustable crescent wrench
Impact Wrench -required to reassemble
pliers
hydrolic jack
hammer - I had to use a sledge hammer the first round
2 or 3 ratcheting tow straps - made life easier (3 is better)
a friend to help would be really good
beer or whiskey
time - a minimum of 5 hours, could take 8 hours.

First of course you lift the truck and remove both of the front tires. I recommend you use jack stands and do both sides at the same time or it will be a pain, especially when it comes to the front sway bar. Make sure the parking brake is set for all of the following.

Next, you need to disconnect a few bolts that hold the brake lines and ABS wire in place. Do not disconnect the brake line, just remove the screws that hold it to the spindle and the upper control arm (UCA). Removing these lines will give a little more play in the wires and let the lower control arm drop lower without worrying about those lines.

See that small bolt on the right holding that ABS wire? you need to remove that. 10mm


Also remove this bolt holding the brake line to the frame. 12mm crescent wrench


And remove the bolt on the side of the spindle holding both the ABS wire and the brake line. 12mm


Now it's time to start removing some bigger bolts. You need to remove the cotter pin from the castle nut holding the spindle to the UCA and then remove the nut. I recommend using an impact wrench and the 1/2" socket angle attachment with the 19mm socket. lace the jack under the lower control arm to lift everything up until the truck starts to lift off the jack stands.



This is also a good time to disconnect the steering from the hub. This is another cotter pin and castle nut. 22mm I think. Try to keep the bolt straight and it will be easier to remove. We had to use the hammer to get it to come loose. Try not to hit the bolt if possible. Hit the arm or put the nut on the end and hit that.


Now use one of the ratcheting tow straps to hold the spindle and keep it from leaning too far out from the truck. If it leans out too far, then it will slide the front axle out of the front differential and that is a world of problems you don't want. I ran the strap from the tow loop to the rectangle cutout in the frame. Here's a picture to give you an idea of how it's run.


Now lower the jack until it just comes off the lower control arm (LCA). Remove the bolts that hold the front sway bar and the bolt and nut (both 22mm?) for the shock to the LCA. I suggest doing the sway bar bolt first. The bolt holding the shock might require a hammer to get it out once the nut is off. Try using the jack to raise and lower the LCA to find which position makes it the easiest to remove. I used a 3/8" socket extension (12" long) and a hammer to get it out. Be sure the spindle isn't out too far. Tighten the strap if needed. Here's a picture of the two bolts, the left one is the one for the sway bar.


Now you can remove the jack and push down on the LCA. The shock should pop out of the cup in the LCA. Then remove the nuts from the top of the shock. (14mm)
When it is out, put the spacer onto the top of the shock and attach with the stock bolts.


Now repeat with the other side. Should be easier since you mostly know what you are doing. After the other side is done, reassemble in the reverse order. Put the top of the shock in first, but don't tighten it all the way down. Having it a little loose makes sliding it into the LCA easier. Attach the front sway bar on both sides at the same time. Then put in the bolts for the shocks and tighten the bolts at the top of the shock. The rest should be reverse of the way it was disconnected. When attaching the spindle to the UCA, I used another ratcheting tie down run from the UCA to the jack to pull the UCA down and make it easier to reassemble. Here, you will NEED to have the impact wrench to get the castle nut on. The bolt is free spinning so just using a wrench won't work, it will just keep spinning. Don't put the wheels on yet.

Once it's all together (except wheels), you need to do the differential drop. I didn't get any pics of this. Small hands here would be a big help.

Remove the skid plate (10mm and 12mm). place the jack under the differential to hold it in place. There are 3 bolts holding the front differential in place. Remove the two rear ones. For some reason, Toyota decided to make those nuts free rather than weld them in place. So you need small hands to get those nuts out. Slowly lower the differential enough for the spacers to fit in place. Put in the spacers and then use the new bolts, washers, and nuts to attach the differential back in place. You need small hands to get the nuts in place. I used the adjustable crescent wrench to hold the nut while I tightened it from below. It was a pain to do. After that is done, you have to put in the skid plate spacers. Use the new bolts and spacers in the back 3 holes for the skid plate.

Once that is done, you can put the wheels back on and remove the jack stands. Now you move on the back axle.

Do one side at a time. Remove the U bolts that hold the axle to the leaf springs.


Once they are off, jack the truck up. I found it easiest to place the jack under the bottom leaf on the front side of the axle. Lift it up just enough to fit the spacer in place. Slip it in and then slowly lower the truck back down. You need to make sure it lines up and locks into place.


Then use the new U bolts and tighten them in place. Then repeat on the other side.


After that, you are done and you need to get a wheel alignment done on the truck.

__________________
Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved.

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, 55w reverse lights, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, colormatched exterior parts (de-chromed truck), Weathertech floor mats, eDead sound proofing, CDT Audio speakers, Custom made speaker brackets, LED foot well lights, PRG/Deaver 3 leaf mini-pack
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

Oh yeah, I don't know if I really needed to put in the rear spacer blocks. After the lift, it still looked a lot like the nose was pointing down a bit. You might be able to leave that out and have a level truck as long as nothing is in the bed.

I likey Tox! I agree on the rear spacer at least from the pic... may not need that one, although it still looks much more level than stock. Can't wait to see it in person.

BTW, once again excellent write up and pics of a DIY install! The long drive to San Saba this weekend should give you a chance to see how it drives.. I am curious to see if it makes any difference.

__________________

2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Brake Controller

Actually, It was installed for a week and 200 miles and I just took it off last night. So you won't get to see it this weekend.

If you don't mind me asking, why'd you take it off?

In my instructions, I recommend not letting the spindle lean out too far or the axle will slip out of the differential. This happened to me when I was installing the lift using the crappy instructions that came with the lift. Once it was out, it took an hour to get back in. And when it was done, there was a problem with the front left drive shaft. It apparently didn't go in right. Felt like it might have grinded before it went back in. I can't tell if there is an axle problem or if the CV boot was making the noise I was hearing with the lift on. So I went back to stock and an having the alignment redone to stock.

The truck goes into the shop tomorrow to get a new CV boot clamp that was removed by us while trying to correct the slipped axle problem. Maybe next week if there is still a problem, I'll take it back to the dealer for a fix. If there was a lift on the truck, they could say that the problem was caused by the lift I put on which means no warranty repair. If it's back to stock, then hopefully they won't say anything and will fix it under warranty and no money out of my pocket other than paying for a few alignments.

Gotcha Tox... now that I think about it, I do seem to recall you mentioning the axle/boot problem earlier.

Here is a Truxxx review and install video I came across the other day. They did their install a little different. They removed the lower control arm instead of the UCA like I did. Might be easier, maybe not.

Truxxx Tundra 3" Lift Kit Review | tundraheadquarters.com

Tox I thought about the Truxx and then went everywhere this side of the moon. Well just placed the order, can't wait! Hopefully after installing it I will be able to make my mind up on the wheel/tires to go with it.

__________________
If you consider cars sacred objects, and find yourself treating them with adoring reverence, while others consider your enthusiasm to be fanatically extreme, then you are a certified car nut….like me !!!!


2007 Tundra DC 5.7 4X4 with very fast Radiant Red slapped on.
Custom painted engine cover(Godzilla)
One set chrome mannly truck nutz.
Putco chrome tow mirror covers and tail gate handle.
Replaced door handles with chrome.
Raptor oval nerf bars.
18X9 Ultra Goliaith wheels +25 offset, chrome.
Truxx 3/1 Level, 1in Differential Drop.
35X12.50-18 Nitto Mudd grapplers. Inflatted 35.04 H and 12.20 W.
15% tint fronts.
American Aluminum low profile tool box, carpeted.
WetOkle Seat Covers.
Cherry Bomb Single Split Dual Exhaust.

Follow the Tundraheadquarters install video. Should be much easier than the way I installed the lift.