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Suspension Questions and Answers concerning both OEM and Aftermarket suspensions for the New Generation Tundra.



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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:39 AM
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When I was using them I was repossesing cars and it was nice to be able to back up to a car hook up, and air up as you're driving away.

As for the offroad, you loose a little flex. The rear won't compress as much and if the axle drops too much it will tear your bags.
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Old 02-22-2009, 10:41 AM
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Great write up and thanks to the rest of you with your input and experience. Ive been looking at these for awhile, but think I'll go with Airlift. All my truck driver buddies said their rigs use the Firestone, but I've heard nothing negative about the Airlift and I like their load sensing SmartAir #25430. It has a delay before it makes any adjustments to alleviate drastic load shifts in corners. Although I'm thinking I'll do the install on the bags only to see how much I would need that onboard compressor anyway.
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McColl View Post
I guess I didn’t look to hard at the gas tank cover looks simple to pull off in you pictures that defiantly would have been helpful info to have.
I'm just so good that I make it look easy. OK, maybe not. I thought it was going to be harder than it was. After pulling out the gas cover, I saw how much room there was behind it and it turned out pretty simple. Wish I had left a little more hose behind it, but there is enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by McColl View Post
I’m stilling looking into doing a 2.5 inch lift up front either the 5100 adjustable or ome like yours and had a favor to ask ya. I like a little rake to the truck still, at 5 psi are you level? I feel that even at 5 psi the back is a little higher then stock I usually have about 10 in the back since I have tools / heavy top and I keep it at 10 even unloaded since I’m lazy. I don’t notice any negative effects even at 10 psi empty (bounce others talk about) but my rear is definitely a little higher. I was hoping you would air up to 10 psi and see if you have a slight rake still, I'm wondering if I need to consider a 1 inch block for the back after lift in order to keep a slight rake and lower psi when empty.

edit: p.s. nice write up as well
With the truck empty and the airbags at 5 psi, I am level at 40" front and back. At 10 psi, I am at 40-1/4" in the rear. Be aware that the OME lift lifted my truck more than the advertised 2.5". Mine was actually lifted 3.5" in the front.

Quote:
Originally Posted by onpointtundra View Post
When I was using them I was repossesing cars and it was nice to be able to back up to a car hook up, and air up as you're driving away.

As for the offroad, you loose a little flex. The rear won't compress as much and if the axle drops too much it will tear your bags.
So you are saying I shouldn't drive diagonal through the ditch again?
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Toxarch View Post
So you are saying I shouldn't drive diagonal through the ditch again?
It might not skrew anything up until they get a little older. I've never had it happen on any trucks that I've driven with them, but have read about a few people having them tear when fully extended. Maybe Allhitch will chime in if he's had any customers tear one yet.

Isn't that kinda like telling you to break your truck in slowly the first 500 miles!! LOL I didn't make it past 15 miles on the truck before I had it up to 90mph.
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by McColl View Post
I'm wondering if I need to consider a 1 inch block for the back after lift in order to keep a slight rake and lower psi when empty.
One more thing. You should be fine with a 2.5" lift. You should still have .5"-1" of rake. But if you do add the block, you will need to do something about the bag's bottom plate. Adding the block will lift the angled part of the bottom plate to be off the axle.
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Old 02-22-2009, 02:37 PM
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So Tox, where are the finished product pictures at? I want to see the whole truck with the new bumper, lift, wheels, and airbags!!
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Old 02-22-2009, 02:57 PM
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Waiting on a pair of fog lights to come in. And I still have to put in the parking sensors since they drilled the holes too big. I have an idea of how I am going to do it. Have some other stuff I need to take care of before that.
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Toxarch View Post
But if you do add the block, you will need to do something about the bag's bottom plate. Adding the block will lift the angled part of the bottom plate to be off the axle.

ya i was i was gong to either a add more blocks or have some one weld a bracket on to the axle in those spots but it looks like that wont be needed.
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Old 02-22-2009, 06:59 PM
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You know, I havent had anyone come back with torn bags, or anything like that on a typical install. I install them in contractor trucks, logging p/u's you name it. So they see alot of abuse. 2 bags have come back with wear holes in them, but both cases was a modded project. The fella had a 42 p/u he lowered and raised with light duty airbags and he built the brackets wrong so when the airbags were aired down they rubbed. I replaced his bags, and modded his brackets, now he should be good to go.

Another guy came in one day to get his wiring fixed up on his 1992 Ford dually. While I was under there I noticed he had airbags, and the shraeder valves were in the bumper, but they were badly damaged, beyond recognition. So I replaced valves and aired them up. Low and behold they held air. So I cleaned everything up, and when he returned I explained what I found and did. His response...... "I have airbags in that truck???" LOL he owned that truck for 9 years and had no idea it had airbags. The bags were completey out of air, yet they worked fine when I aired them up! So every situation is different. I wouldnt worry about most driving conditions doing any damage to your bags.
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:40 PM
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Rite-ride instructions vs. reality

Tox has a great write up on the install of your Ride-Rites... I referred to it yesterday during my own. One thing that is puzzling to me.... perhaps I am paranoind. The destrcutions (instructions) show the bags mounting with the alignment pin towards the front of the rig. I tried every way I could to make that happen..... but the top plate would not align for the combination bolt to fit through the hole in the frame if set up so the alignment faced forward. Thus the bags mounted with alignment pin on top plate facing towards rear vs. front. Firestone suppport says it should be towards front and that if it doesn't I should flip the to plate. Thought I did that the first time....but when out and loosened a bag up this morning to check if I was insane.... and sure enough NO WAY to get the top plate to accomodate the alignement pin on the bag (top plate) being towards the front. My bags seem to be sitting nice atop my leafs. Do you think the fact that our installs don't explicity match the instructions... and some anonymous firestone tech's email response..... is a problem?

Here is Firestone's response to my query:
From: rrtech
To:
Subject: RE: Ride-Rite Tech Support Question
Sent: Jun 4, 2009 5:06 AM

The leg of the lower bracket should go to the inside of the leaf stack
and the upper bracket should be positioned so the combo stud is rearward
and the alignment pin is forward. If the bag seems misaligned this way,
you may have the upper bracket upside down.


Sincerely,
Ride-Rite
Tech Support
www.riderite.com
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