Toyota Tundra Forum

It was a good read....and I also now know the IMPORTANCE of warming up my engine before I zoom off. That could also be the reason Yota has our engine start up idle at around 2000rpm.... humm....

__________________



Mine: 07 5.7 CM 4x4 SR5 Tundra White
MINE & His: 07 5.7 DC 4x4 TRD Tundra Radiant Red

Well since I was at work and was getting paid to read this, I finally finished it. Was a very good read & A lot of good info. Good Job Chicky!

__________________

Excellent read! Good stuff Chicks!.

Now here's a question - I plan on going with synthetic 0w-20 when i do my first oil change. I've been told that changing from mineral to synthetic should be done in stages. I have a feeling this is BS. In my ninja i was told to change to semi first and then full synthetic - any truth to this?

The toyota manual recommends using the lower weight oil for better fuel economy - why wouldn't everyone be using this always?! - i guess it's about education.. this article really opened my eyes!

__________________
CrewMAX 5.7 SR5
Surrey, BC Canada

LINE-X Bed Liner, Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller, ScanGauge II

Geddes Family Homestay - Hosting international students in Vancouver, Surrey

There's no reason you can't just go to Synthetic. I don't know why people pass on so much disinformation about Synthetics when there are a boatload of vehicles that come from the Factory with Mobil 1 in them so change with confidence that what you're doing is good for your truck.

__________________
Good Gawd that is one ugly Tundra.

These threads seem to always draw a variety of opinions be they for car, motorcycle, or truck. My only point is to avoid being seduced by the sellers of ultra excpensive oils because their value is marginally, if at all, no better than products from the major oil companies. As for me, I find Shell Rotella T synthetic oil to perform flawlessly in both my motorcycles and cars over the years. Now, with my new Tundra, I plan to use it there as well. The best part is this oil is available at Walmart at a reasonable price so you don't get ripped off by the auto stores pushing the pricey stuff.

I haven't priced the Shell Rotella synthetic oil at WalMart, but I do know they also carry Mobil 1 synthetic (5W-20 at my WalMart) at slightly less than $22 for a 5 quart jug. That price certainly seems to be a lot less than you can buy it at most auto parts stores, or at least those in my home town.

__________________

2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller

My ski boat has a PCM motor in in it. They recommend NOT using synthetic oil for the first 100 or so hours.

thank God for the interpretation!

__________________
07 Tundra DC 4x4, Radiant Red, debadged, Bed Mat, Brushed stainless steel step boards, Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror, Heated Towing Mirrors, 18” Alloy Wheels, Cold Kit, Mud Flaps, Tow Package, Rear Sliding Window, All Weather Floor Mats, TomTom 920T

Just stumbled on this thesis. Great job! Guess I need to get the 20W50 out of my 67 Chevelle and go to perhaps 0w30 Mobile 1 in by 08 Tundra.

First this is the best write-up on motor oil I have ever read!

So given Dr. Haas's 10 PSI / 1000 RPM rule of thumb, I was off to see how my Tundra was performing on a fresh oil change with Mobil One 5W-30 Synthetic Blend.

I tested 1K, 2K and 3K RPM using the factory gauges.







As I suspected the results are not exactly linear . That said, does anyone know what the factory oil gauge actual PSI reference is. I checked the manual with no luck.

-wleeb