Toyota Tundra Forum

You don't have to remove the skid plate, but I forgot to mention that you will need one of those cheap little pumps that screw onto to the quart diff fluid bottles. The fill plug on the front diff is high on the diff and there is only a couple of inches of room.
It is not necessary to use the pump on the rear diff, as there is plenty of room, although I used the pump on the rear also.

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2007 Tundra DC Limited 5.7L 4X4
TRD,NAV,TOW
Xlerator Exhaust
aFe Stage 2 CAI
BFG AT/KO 285/65/18
Desert Sand Mica

I just finished changing the transfer case oil.I was a little surprised at how clean the oil was, in fact it looked brand new, this is with over 1000 miles in 4WD and going into 4WD several hundred times. If I had known how good the oil looked, I would have wanted a lot longer.
The drain plug is located at the bottom of the transfer case, so you have to take out the 2 bolts on the skid plate that face toward the rear of the truck. Then take out the bolt that that holds the skid plate on the front of the skid plate. That leaves one bolt at the top front of the transfer case. Just loosen this bolt so that the skid plate swings away from the drain plug. Don't do as I did and remove the top front bolt, as it is hard to get back in, there is very little room.
There is another small skid plate that obstructs access to the fill plug.You could probably use an open or box end wrench to get to the fill plug, but I choose to remove the skid plate This looks more like a bracket than a skid plate, it is very easy to remove and install. The skid plate that looks like a bracket has two 12mm bolts,this bracket will also have to be removed to grease the driveline, the drain and fill plugs are both 24mm. Remember that the skid plate bolts and the fill and drain plugs screw into aluminum so don't tighten them to much, 29lbs is all it takes.
The fill plug is high on the transfer case, so a pump is necessary to get the oil in. You may be able to squeeze the oil in from the quart jug, but I choose to use the pump.

Great info and will sure come in handy down the road.

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Good Gawd Squid that is one ugly Tundra.

Thanks Sky, I just wanted to bump this thread. In my view it is the most salient tread to date on this forum.

It ought to get some kind of award or something.

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2007 Tundra DC SR5 5.7L 4X4
TRD, Leather, Backup Cam, Tow
Blue Streak

Mods: Black Line-x bed, Husky Liner floor mats, Yota billet shifter, Flowmaster Super 40 muffler (dual in/dual out) with rear exit SS exhaust tips, Firestone Destination 285 65 18 MTs. Truxx 3-inch lift/level kit. Bushwacker pocket fender flares. 4-cleat Tundra deck rail kit. Westin bull bar.

Sky,

Do you have a pic or part number for the diff oil pump?

I did all of mine at 1500 and changed into Mobil 1 synthetic GL 5. (The front was a bear; I put a long piece of clear plastic tubing and squeezed while holding my arm high

Do you know if (M1) it is available in 5 gallon pails?

Here is a picture of the pump I used. It fits quart bottles and was only a couple of $.

SKYHHAMER, I HAVE THE 5.7 2WD CREW.
AT 5000 MILES MOBILE 1 5W-20GOES IN ENGINE WITH TIRE ROTATE. I HAVE A GOOD MECHANIC THAT MADE MY F150 GO 195, 000 MILES WITH REG MAINTAINANCE BUT I NEVER CHANGED REAR DIFF OIL! HOW OFTEN WILL YOU CHANGE THE Mobile 1 75-90 synthetic, 4 quarts IN THE REAR DIFF, WHAT OTHER PARTS DO YOU NEED, EXAMPLE FILTER, TO ACCOMPLISH THIS? SORRY TO BE REPETETIVE IN QUESTION, BUT I WANT TO GET IT RIGHT WHEN I TELL HIM WHAT I WANT.

I will most likely change out all the diff and transfer case oil at 20k. The maintenance manual says to change out the oil every 15k if towing. I am in 4WD nearly every day , so my diffs, transfer case get a work out. Other than that, the maintenance manual doesn't mention anything about changing the drive train oil.
I also like to change the oil so I can see if there is anything bad going on, like chunks of gears, metal filing etc. It is probably not necessary, but it is easy to do, fairly cheap, gives me something to do and gives me a little piece of mind.
There are no filters or anything you have to buy, just oil and few tools that most people should already have, basic wrenches and a socket and extension. It is always a good idea to have a good torque wrench when dealing with aluminum, but if you pay attention to the torque specs you shouldn't have a problem.
I would print out the PDF's on the transfer case and diffs, so you mechanic will know the proper torque settings.
Since you mentioned having him rotate your tires, I would make sure that he knows the torque settings for the lug nuts. Aluminum wheels need to be torqued just right or you may have problems.

Tire Rotation At Dealer Due To That 36 Service With Tire Rotation As Part Of Package Every 5000 Miles. Heck! You Already Paid For New Tires In Package, I Have Duellers From Factory, But Michellin Ls Were Perty Good In Previous Truck.

I just changed the front diff, rear diff and transfer case oil again. I have a little over 28k on the truck, so I had a little over 25k on this oil.
The old oil was looked very good, still mostly honey colored, with a small amount of black streaks in the oil. The first change at about 3k, the rear diff oil was fairly dark.
The front diff and the transfer case oil looked brand new with very little gunk on the drain bolt.
Since the last oil change 25k ago, I have at least 10k miles towing and about 7500 miles in 4WD.
I will probably go 30k or more before I change the oil again.