Toyota Tundra Forum

My filter cap was on very tight as well. It did however come spinning off when I had the 3/8" drive, and rachet in the drain plug. The drain plug feels like it is now super glued into the filter cap.

The one, and only time I had my oil changed at the dealer seems to have been a mistake. I did however have it done on a Sunday around six months ago so it probably was not the best mechanics working that day.

I would go back to the dealer here in Tracy, but being six months ago, and the fact that I am in the process of moving from Tracy, CA to Prescott, AZ right now I don't have the time.

I also really don't see the benefit of the whole drain plug anyway. When spinning the cap off I just let the oil drain into a pan which did not seem to be any more messy than using the drain plug, and plastic tool provided in the filter box.

I see the PDF of the oil filter bracket clip, but if anyone has a close up picture of it please post it here. Thanks...

__________________
Rich

07 Limited CrewMax 4x4 in black with all factory options including TRD front brakes with oversize rotors/calipers.
Xtra's: Borla Cat Back, aFe CAI, and just recently added a Leer Cap for the dog!

Can a moderator add this to the original post? I screwed up and made this mistake:

Be sure to properly seat the rubber O-ring on the filter otherwise all of your oil will leak out and leave your engine dry like the servcie dept did to the guy in one of these other threads. It doesn't belong way far down on the filter. It actually sits a half inch or so above where you might think. You should fee nice consistent resistance as you do your last few turns of the filter housing. You actually feel the rubber of the gasket sliding along like a screw with a rubber band wrapped around it. If you see the gasket squishing out of the edge of the filter as you tighten then it is in the wrong place.

(copied from StatCoder on TS)

__________________

Added in near the part about reinstalling the filter.

__________________

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

Thanks. After getting that o-ring in the correct place, I managed to lose track of how much oil I had drained and how much I had put back in. I proceeded to spend the next 2 hours adding a little, measuring, adding a little, measuring, etc. But the dipstick would go from below the 'low' line to above the 'full' line after adding only .2 quarts of oil. It was infuriating, because then I'd drain some back out and start the whole process over. I have no idea how it was happening, but I finally gave up messing with it one time when it jumped to above the full line after adding .2 of a quart. I guess I'll just check it again after a day of driving.

Excellent point Rone... the first time I changed my oil, I didn't pay attention to where the o-ring was and reinstalled the filter with the new o-ring all the way to the flange of the housing. Fortunately, I noticed the o-ring squishing out of the filter housing as I was reinstalling the filter, pulled it back off, and realized that the o-ring goes into a groove a 1/2" or so above the housing flange and towards the housing threads.

__________________

2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller

and thank you for taking the time to post. Thanks again, Scott

Great post. I would also recommend that when you buy the tool for removing the filter housing that you get one that is the exact size. All I could find was on that was 65/67 mm. You need a 65mm. What a piece of junk. Don't waist your money. You would be better off using a band tension wrench. Also the dealership if in fact they changed the filter replaced it so tight that I had to use a big a$$ pipe wrench to get the housing off.

Thanks for taking the time to think of others. I would have been very frustrated had I tried to figure this out on my own. Again, thanks for the very thoughtful post!
Walt

As mentioned about 139 times already, thank you very much for a very thorough and very well illustrated post. In the process of the first oil change and has gone very smooth so far (waiting for oil to drain right now.)
max

So I finally did my first oil change. What a mess trying to use that plastic tool. It was a pain in the rear trying to remove the filter housing but with a little elbow grease you can get it done. Thanks for this write up, it helped out. I ended up using Mobile 5w20.

__________________
09DC Nautical Blue TRD package SR5. Aries running boards. Chrome handle.TRD shifter and pedals. 20% Front tint. Volant intake. Banks Power Single exhaust installed by Banks(Prototype).