Toyota Tundra Forum

Thanks for the heads-up on these issues MB... please keep us posted on updates. Cheers!

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2007 Tundra Limited Double Cab 4x4 Super White
Volant CAI
Pioneer AVIC Z-2 (hard drive upgrade to AVIC Z-3)
Key FOB Tailgate Lock (courtesy of Toxarch)
OEM back-up camera w/flip down monitor microswitch mod
Sirius Satellite Radio
WeatherTech Floor Liners
20" OEM alloy wheels
Line-X Bed liner
UWS Black Powdercoat Low Profile Toolbox
DU-HA underseat storage unit
JC Whitney Black Nerf Bars
Lund Interceptor II Bug Shield
Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller

I went to dealer yesterday for warped rotors on a 2007 Tundra Crewmax limited. I talked with the service rep who I asked it this common? Why yes its a big truck and when the rotors heat up they warp, kinda like my "ford ranger". I explained I don't tow anything, haul anything heavy, no heavy braking the vehicle only has 10,789 miles on it. I went wow, great product.

The service guy considers his Ford Ranger as a big truck?

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Any questions about truck mods I have done need to be asked in the forums. Don't send me a private message about mods cause I probably won't answer that PM unless there is money involved.

2007 SR5 Crewmax 5.7L 4x4
Mods: nerf bars, Truxedo tonneau, radar detector power, 3M clear bra, fog lights, black billet grille, rear differential breather, parking sensors, Line-X, power tailgate lock, hood safety latch mod, one off driving lights behind grille, Pioneer NAV w/ OEM camera, Flowmaster 50 SUV dual/dual, blue LED dash lights, Volant CAI, Llumar tint, CompuStar Pro alarm, ProComp 6066 20" wheels, Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/60/20 tires, OME HD coilover lift, Firestone helper air bags, 55w reverse lights, stereo cable lock, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, colormatched exterior parts (de-chromed truck), eDead sound proofing, CDT Audio speakers, Custom made speaker brackets, Weathertech floor mats
All mod descriptions and pictures © 2007-2009 by Toxarch. They may be copied only for personal use and the mods may be done for non-profit only.

A precaution I now use with my Tundra and learned from when I had my Titan (which was notorious for warped rotors)... always loosen and tighten lug nuts cross-pattern and evenly, and if you have a service facility do it, make sure they do the same, including using a torque wrench when tightening the lug nuts to manufacturers specification. Not saying this is what happened to you jac1304, but I do know that over tightening, or uneven tightening of lug nuts has been known to cause rotor warpage.

I have been told, if your rotors are hot and they get wet ,the will warp... ex: rainy weather , splashing from puddles or just spraying the wheels and water gets on the rotors causing it to warp. THOUGHTS?



www.kassidyspage.com

I am guessing here but...either defective rotors, improper lugnut tightening sequence or someone is riding the brakes going downhill then parking the vehicle. The hot spot created by the brake pad sitting in one place on the rotor while stopped will cause warp. These trucks have some of largest diameter brake rotors availble on a truck, hard to believe normal usage will warp them. I drive a 07, 5.7, DC, Limited, when I wash the truck I always hear the water sizzling off the hot rotors, I have 19K miles and no indication of rotor warp. Either way I really want the TRD big brake kit for the front!!!Sweet!!!

We had the same problem with some Titans when they first came out. Any of you Bed your brakes in when you got your truck? http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/whe...hy-brakes.html I do and have never had a brake problem even on the Titan.

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Good Gawd Squid that is one ugly Tundra.

Very interesting read Squid, I did not know that I needed to 'bed-in' my brakes, makes perfect sense.

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-wleeb

Just so my story is clear on my brakes issue. Definitely not a brake rider (also a tech for going on 25 years) I really love the downshift program with the 6 speed (man I just love this truck), and the Titan and Tundra are a dif animal from the start. (not picking on anyone here its just that as an old toyota tech we had big problems years ago and Toyota doesn't make the same mistakes twice) and litteraly I'm a prick of a mechanic if I do say so myself if I hate a design I just have to call them out on it. Worked for the blue oval and (oh this is gonna hurt to admit) yes Dodge....there I said it....... and with that I'll just say they are getting what they deserve! You build bad they (people/customers) don't come back. But back to the brake issue. Rotors / brakes period are built /designed with the understanding that water will be a constant issue. In engineering (sorry to be so descriptive here people but feel compeled to explain myself in detail as I was also involved in racing years ago and have to explain all the little details that go into a "build". Its if you could imagine a UL ratings system. They will put so many of these designs on test frames and if you can beleive it they will litteraly try and destroy the test module. Then take it apart and see what failed. (And yes see if they can get away and "under over build it") Water / heat soaking / pad glazing / heat faid etc...... are all taken into account. The crazy brakes so talked about in the commercials is BECAUSE OF the issues we had years back. When you see aircraft aluminum on an automobile, trust me the penny pinchers in any auto company want to make sure you exhuasted every other avenue out FIRST! I can assure you I baby my truck it was litteraly bought only to pull a car carrier. It has a Teckonsha brake controller and I will send the load to the trailer I always dial in my controllers before I roll, in my state you can be very much sued beyond the minds imagination. The truck has only 12.800k on it and its two years old (yes it sits alot) Yes I'm pathetic it gets washed just to keep the dust off and hasn't pulled the official car carrier yet as I haven't bought it yet (its just for a bussines and present economy has made it not needed yet) so basicaly truck ain't pulled more than 3k yet and that was with the little trailer we have right now. Truck had issue from day one but was faint so I let it go. It may be a casting issue we had at Ford years ago that involved bi-metals that reacted with heat transfer through the castings. (hate to bring up other manufactures because its bad analigy and wrong to do so for so many reasons). #1 the Titan is not the Tundra just as the #2 Ridgeline from Honda can't be compared. They are all trucks but engineering went in several different directions with all these trucks! A suspension alone could be reason enough to make a truck or car a disaster (ask anyone who owned a Chevy S-10 Blazer about ball joints etc) You can't compare one vehicle to another period! There are things that in time we may find out are engineering nightmares on our own beloved Tundra's WHO KNOWS? Personaly I judge a vehicle per 100k. I found it stupid and crazy to fill out JD powers questioneres when the truck had 1500 miles on it.As for torqueing wheels? Amen to that! You must always especialy when you have aluminum wheels. YES YOU CAN warp brand new rotors from over torque. When I took my truck in I actualy put my snap-on torque wrench in the cab preset to 98ftpds and told the Toyota tech doing the warranty brake job that it was in there just for him to use as there was no excuse should he not have his own personal one! Also be careful should oil get on threads this changes everything ( I have an official chart that shows the dramatic changes) they will be over torqued so be careful when you put on neverseize to stop electrolysis from disimilar metals such as when we put application between aluminum rim to rotor contact! There now I've "talked / written enough and will shut up for time being" Do hope this was of some help.

Nice write up MasterBlaster... appreciate your thoughts!